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How many kms is too much- million? Cummins, cat, paccar, Detroit engine’s?- looking at used truck to pull tridem grain trailer
 

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Depends on what year. Million is nothing for a 60 series Detroit N14 or a 6nz cat. Million without some work done on a newer one is kinda a ticking time bomb
 

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Not so much the kms but the maintenance done to it. Depends what it did in it's past life, a million kms hauling gravel is quite a bit different than highway kms. If a truck has very low miles for the year, could be a sign it was a lemon (emissions most likely). Higher miles isn't always bad thing as many fleets replace items at certain mileage intervals. Trannies and diffs are relatively cheap compaired to engines and emissions.
 

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Maintenance matters more than mileage, later model trucks can be made to be functional and mostly reliable, but do your research and ask lots of questions. There's this notion that a 6NZ Cat in a Pete/KW is the only way to go, and I'm not here to start a race war with "you people", but there are so many other options out there that can do the same work just as reliably with a lower purchase price, more readily available, and easier to source parts for. If you need to find something that has an auto-shift transmission, because that's what your operation requires, there are options. Mack/Volvo tractors are usually a smoking bargain on the used market, a Mack CHU with MP8 engine rated 505hp with the mDrive trans and Mack rear axles can do a heck of a lot of heavy hauling for low sticker price. Just be aware that you'll need to do a cylinder head and/or (most likely) injector cups/sleeves between 400-600km. They can be made to be reliable, too, just gotta ask. Late model Cummins ISX engines have suffered everything from basic engine rotating assembly failures to cylinder head failures to fuel system failures, you name it. I believe it's simply a numbers game, there are more of those engines on the road than almost anything and everything else, so of course more issues get reported. To summarize, ask lots of questions, build a relationship of trust with an educated service provider who invests in tooling and diagnostic capabilities, know your needs vs wants, and give an honest evaluation of your maintenance/repair capabilities and responsibilities.
 

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Depends on what year. Million is nothing for a 60 series Detroit N14 or a 6nz cat. Million without some work done on a newer one is kinda a ticking time bomb


I have a 12.7 Detroit series 60 in a Volvo that was a FedEx tractor. Over a million and started right up at 25 deg F last week and doesn't smoke after start up. The engine runs awesome but the truck it is attached to is worn. Good enough for what I am doing however and the price was right. Super 10 took a little to get used to but I like it now.
 

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60 series good on fuel, reasonable to fix. 46 rears full lock up. look under floor mats for rotten cabs(eastern unit salted out therefore everything you need to change will break from corrosion, air valves, rad tanks etc)
no def
have one Mack, have to buy most parts from mack-expensive
 

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Any newer Cummings with 10000hrs plus that hasn’t had engine done don’t buy it unless it’s a good price because you’ll be spending $45,000 on a rebuild.
The average one makes it to about 10 to 12 thousand hours
 

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Cummins ISM in my 9200 international has 23,000 hrs touch wood. Only 400hp but enough for my tandem trailer that's for sure. Easy on fuel too.
 

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We’ve been doing our own ISX inframes for about 11k between a new head and overhaul kit.

I like to rub it in when my uncle just spent 50k overhauling one of his trucks with a CAT.

That and we bought a 2011 T800 winch tractor with a ISX 550 for 37,000. A whole TRUCK! It’s turning out to be one of my favorite tractors to boot.

If you can stand being seen in a Vulva they just about give them away and the sales and some are spec’d out pretty decent now.
 

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Any newer Cummings with 10000hrs plus that hasn’t had engine done don’t buy it unless it’s a good price because you’ll be spending $45,000 on a rebuild.
The average one makes it to about 10 to 12 thousand hours
Just curious by what you would refer to as "newer"? Have an '06 isx 475 with just over 20000hrs and it sort of been kind of Fall where "extra" expenses on just about everything so looking forward to this. This thing gets under 500hrs/yr put on it and has a good life so hoping it can last. There is a $20000 insurance work order that was going to do this winter to make it look pretty, but maybe should be putting this towards engine.

Have to say that I think I liked the series 60 in 2000 truck that this one replaced better.
 

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I just did a CM2250 for a customer. Kit was 9000, head was 7500. Was under 30k including having a service call to get the counterbores cut.
No turbo or injectors changed though. That would add a bit.
 

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Most farm trucks don't see many hours per year so I don;t see the point in going too new/expensive. My brother, 35 year HD mechanic, will not buy a truck with around 800,000km unless it's REAL cheap or has service records that warrant a decent price. He WILL, however, buy a truck with 1.2million on it. In his experience, trucks with around 800,000 are due for some major repairs, diffs, tranny's, engine if they have not been done yet, at 1.2 million most major components have been changed. As was mentioned, ISX has a reputation for being a 10,000 hour motor. That doesn't mean the EVERY ISX with cough up a lung at 10,000 hours just that the odds are better for an ISX than other engines, not because there are more out there but by percentage of engines out there. I'm jot sure where these high dollar inflames are being done. I have a friend (cummins fan) that informed a CAT and said it cost him $60,000. I have no idea HOW you can spend that much and I'm pretty sure you can get a drop in for a LOT less. My 2005 MXS ACERT got dusted a year ago and it cost <$30,000 and that was everything except the timing gears including replacing both turbos. Volvos have a reputation for wiring issues. I like my Pete's my brother likes his Kenworths. He used to run Pete's but found the proprietary parts too expensive compared to Kenworth. As much as I dislike Freightliners, hey do make good farm trucks and can be had CHEAP. Probably the best value would be in a western star. Whatever you get, I would suggest you stay pre 2007. While some truck/engines have better reputations than others, you can still get a problem child in something with a very good overall reputation and something extremely reliable in something with a horrible reputation it's just that the odds are against it. A friend of mine has a 6.0L ford excursion with over 700,000 KM on it and it has never been opened up.
 

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I prefer to buy a bit older as well with a history of recent engine work, good rubber, and a 18 speed tansmission. Guys will put a pile of money into these older trucks and sell them for a fraction of what they have put into them. If the motor has been done a 100,000 km ago it does not matter to me what the total km are on the unit. With older units you can not tell how many times the odometer has been around any way.
 

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Just curious by what you would refer to as "newer"? Have an '06 isx 475 with just over 20000hrs and it sort of been kind of Fall where "extra" expenses on just about everything so looking forward to this. This thing gets under 500hrs/yr put on it and has a good life so hoping it can last. There is a $20000 insurance work order that was going to do this winter to make it look pretty, but maybe should be putting this towards engine.

Have to say that I think I liked the series 60 in 2000 truck that this one replaced better.
2011 and newer. In our fleet the 2012 2013 have been the worst
 

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Focusing solely on an engine in a truck purchase isn't always the best scenario. If you are your own mechanic you would appreciate a Pete. My son works on piles of trucks and almost anything you work on is easier on a Pete. Frames are made for easy starter removals etc. I put 500 hrs a yr easily on my truck. I bought it cheap at 14,000 from a friend. It needed TLC. I took it to the shop my son works at and said whatever it needs put it in. Seal on rear end, tires all around, motor mounts, exhaust repair, fender tube, clutch brake adjustment, brake pot, water pump, 1/2 windshield, couple air bags on suspension and 2 on cab. The truck had a complete going over from one end to the other. Personally I prefer buying a truck cheap that needs work and spend the money on the repairs. When you are done it just needs a yearly physical for the most part and you know what you got afterwards. I have just over 30 into this one now but is ready to go anywhere.
 

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Almost everything you buy will have issues eventually. We prefer to buy older cheaper trucks and know it will need some money put into it instead of spending at the top end of the budget and hoping that it won't need anything. I prefer to fix the bigger items, I hate all the little things like rusted out parts and bodies and loose doors etc.
 
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