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Discussion Starter #1
I traded to a new 740TT for this fall and decided to put in a SB impeller. I thought that I had read on here one time that the V plates on cylinder will have to be removed or they will strike the SB impeller. Can't seem to find it in a search. Is that correct?

Ran my older 740 with sunflower kit on standard impeller and made a huge difference. Thought I'd try the SB since i haven't heard anything bad about it. Hard to know if the extra money and effort worth it. Lot of guys here in Illinois seem to be making the switch. Don't need in corn of course, but green stems in beans will ruin your day with standard impeller.

It seems some people say to use sunflower knife and dog while other say just run regular dog. I am needing it for green stem soybeans. I know this has been talked about a lot but just thought I'd check one more time before I start the switch. Have appreciated all the help people have offered with solutions for this.
 

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I have V splitter plates on and sunnybrook impeller. They do not strike the SB impeller. This is on a wide body 780 though, I'm only assuming the 740 would be the same.

SB impeller is huge improvement and worth every penny.

Can't comment on the knife kit as I don't have it, and don't have any bean experience either.
 

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Running two machines with them and one without. We got at least a .5 mph more out of the Sunmybrook machines consistently in our grass seed crops. The standard machine would trip the crop flow way earlier. We are also running wide body’s.

We also have the v kits on our cylinder, and as far as the knife goes Sunnybrook makes a knife that inserts right into the slot from the Claas knife. We had one with and one without the knife. Both seemed to work fine. No impeller plugs all season with the two Sunnybrook machines.

Only complaints on the Sunnybrook in our area is that the paddles can bend if you run really wet grass through. I had two bent paddles on one machine, I haven’t checked the other yet.

Scott
 

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I would not mess with the cylinder in any way if adding a SB impeller. The only cylinder change I would consider is maybe an SB cylinder if necessary.

I would install the SB impeller but before finishing the install, I would weld a corn head knife down the middle of the rotor nose piece. I would weld two knifes back to back and about an inch high at the highest point. This should clear the impeller, yet help even more cut and divide material going to the rotors. With the new knife extending upward, you may want to at least partly install the impeller before installing modified rotor nose, to keep from dragging across it.

This is a picture of mine, used with the factory impeller. It was taken when I removed it after several thousand acres to inspect it. It was still very sharp with little wear. This was the solution on our 740 to prevent material from building above the impeller and hanging up around the rotor nose. I also use it with the SB impeller and it all works very good together.
 

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What paddle would bend, on a SB impeller? If so, you are probably nearing the limit for the impeller shaft on the left side and getting close to fatiguing the shaft and bolts that hold it to the impeller, IMO.
 

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The middle flat ones. They are folded back some. I will have to check those shafts out good when we get the machines into the shop. We had a really wet start to the grass season with a lot of moisture in on the bottoms of the windrows. It doesn't help that everyone is going to larger windrows and cutting with rotary heads. The rotary heads have a tendency to rope up tight knots in the windrows in certain conditions, if you hit one with a stock impeller going to fast you were in trouble. With the Sunnybrooks could keep it moving through the machines. We plugged the APS a few times, and one main cylinder but no impellers. I ran the Cropflow set to the most sensitive setting, and I am a strong believer in that. It in conjunction with the Sunnybrook makes the combine an eating machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for replies. I think new combine came with V plates installed so sounds like I can leave them. I can see how the knife can help.

Lot of people are worried about green stem beans with all the late planting this year. Heard Macdonald is coming out with extra coarse teeth on sickle
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, I don't hear people talk about taking variater apart to get impeller out. This is a 740TT.

Is there enough clearance to get it past? Doesn't look like to me. Never heard anyone talk about that.
 

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Also, I don't hear people talk about taking variater apart to get impeller out. This is a 740TT.

Is there enough clearance to get it past? Doesn't look like to me. Never heard anyone talk about that.
Most of the Canadian units don't have the variable speed header drive that you do there. On the regular header drive it comes out....just. Looks like your is not going to without that variator being removed.:frown:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was hoping I could angle it out a little when I get the right side shaft free but maybe not. Having trouble getting pulley off the left side. If i can get pulley and plate off it will let me see a little more easily if there is room to get it out.
 

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You will not be able to angle it much. I think you can take off four or so bolts behind the big pulley to remove the whole set up from the wall of the combine. When you have the impeller out weld up a bigger v at the back of the concave.
 

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You asked about the variator... Claas has had several different renditions of the header drive. Our 2011 740 feeder variator is actually mounted directly on the end of the impeller shaft. Yours is located separately. It looks like it will need to be removed, but maybe not.

Most Claas pulleys come off very easily if you understand how to do so. If that is a used machine, while you have that feeder pulley off, consider rebuilding the bushings in it, as it is pretty cheap to do so, and it would be convenient.

As far as the impeller pulley and bearing behind it, I have heard they can be a real struggle to remove and save to reuse, especially the bearing. Consider a phone call to a dealer that does a lot of Sunnybrook conversions and they may have a technique to save the impeller bearing. The four bolts that hold the shaft to the new impeller should be properly torqued with loctite IMO. You do NOT want any of those to come loose, as you will have to tear it all apart again to fix it.
 

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You will not be able to angle it much. I think you can take off four or so bolts behind the big pulley to remove the whole set up from the wall of the combine. When you have the impeller out weld up a bigger v at the back of the concave.
That is a good idea for the feeder pulley. If it doesn't need rebuilt, simply remove the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think I will have to wait for the dealer--they have done a fair number now. Had the service order request in for a couple of weeks. I thought I'd start with the easy stuff, thinking it is brand new would come apart easily but I see not the case. Since it is under warranty, better they do it. That variator assembly looks really heavy. If variator was mounted just of few inches back, this job would be a whole lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just curious, I see they have tapered rings in the impeller pulley. Are you supposed to try and remove that outside ring first, before you try to pull the pulley? Never had any experience with that.
 

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That sounds right. With a sharp chisel, you should be able to get the outside ring off, then pulley, then key and inner ring. The bearing will be next, with a flanged housing. Unfortunately, it is about impossible to remove the four bolts/shaft from the impeller without removing the bearing from the shaft first, and that is the hard part.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One more question. Service tech really had to pull hard to get left hand bearing off the impeller. This is on a brand new machine so bearing was new. Would you replace this bearing or do you think it's safe to reuse?
 

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When we did our two machines last winter we put all new bearings on, the machines had one season on them. I put the old ones on the shelf in case they will be needed in an emergency. I figured we were that deep, why not make sure they were not damaged from the removal. We did have to pull the Variator off for the feeder house, we tried to do it without, but it has to come off. You will be happy with the Sunnybrook, its worth the headache of the changeout.
 

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If you pull hard I Would replace it. Most of the time you have to cut this bearing out. It is the worst part of the job. We have tried to pull it and have never had luck with it. If you are keeping the old impeller I sometimes just leave the old bearing on it and put the new bearing on the Sunny Brook. That way if you had to change one in a pinch it would greatly speed up the process.
 
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