[f_armer]

There has been previous discussion on walker blocks, and changing from cast block to wood blocks. How much play should there be in a cast block before it would be considered wore out?
I have some play but it seems worse depending on what part of the crank rotation I'm at, they must wear slightly oblong. Also am noticing some rubbing between a couple of walkers. This is just at the rear, front could be the same but I haven't checked yet.
Have about 2400 Threshing hours on it, it's a 1993 model 9600
supposedly had the walker update done back when I bought it in 1999.
I have been giving the blocks about 20 pumps with grease daily.

Any recommendations?

 

[bent]

Someone makes a taper lock ball bearing for the rear of the walkers. It will fit the front also, but the guy said you wouldn't need them. I havn't used them, but they looked good. Has anyone here used a set?

Deere has a spec on walker play. I think its something about 1/8 inch up and down. I think if they get to sloppy you will start experiencing broken walkers.

 

[lexionman575]

Yes they used to say .625 which is 1/8 max. I have one guy running the bearings and really likes them. He doesnt have any problems and highly recomends them.

On my 9500 I ran the wooden blocks.

You definetly dont want too much play/rubbin walkers or you'l have some big problems.

 

[scott]

new holland walker machine use taper lock bearings, need deminsion of shaft, I am a mechanic for new holland dealer, let me know size of shaft and I will check for you, scott.

 

[davedan]

farmnerd Your cranks are already worn out too much for tapered bearings to seat properly. There are many different opinions on what you should do at this point. I used to run the alloys, and yes pump grease like crazy in them and eventually be up to almost twenty pumps to just fill them up. I finally realized that even the alloy bearings with lip type seals allow dirt to come in and wear cranks.
My 9650 had only 1100 seperator hours when I took the back alloys apart for inspection at the end of the season and they had more dirt than grease in them. The grease attracts dirt also. Wood blocks have very little oil emitted when operating so dirt attraction is minimal. All my machines run wood now and we have no problems. Timing naturally is very important. I now save three tubes a day and the cranks come in contact with less dirt than before.
I would imagine that your cranks even with new alloys will still have too much play.

 

[f_armer]

Sounds like I need to replace them, I'll probably try out the wooden ones, I really don't like greasing them cast ones anyhow.
Is it Loewen that sells them, or where do I get them?

 

[txfarmer]

This is where DaveDan and I part company a little bit.

I have had great luck with my cast alloys. I am like the other poster in that I give 'em about 20 shots, but man...they have been in there for years, now, and show very little wear/slop. Before the alloys, I had the wood blocks, and only got about a season and a half out of them. Did I get a "lemon" set of wood blocks? Who knows....

You can ask 10 different people, and get 8 different replies pertaining to this subject!
I guess it is fair to mention that when I went to the cast alloys I also changed the cranks...that way, everything was fresh, and could wear in together. I really think that makes a big difference!
Also, for what it's worth, my local JD mechanic thinks the alloys are still the best option...but doubt all JD mechanics feel like mine does! LOL

On this subect, it seems "to each his own", after the facts and opinions have been gathered!

 

[twolunger]

Farmnerd what type of grease do you use in the blocks? You can adjust for the side to side movment by moving the locating rings on the cranks. This will get you some more use out of the blocks and more importantly keep those walkers from hitting.

 

[davedan]

The new WTS walkers use wood blocks now days. Must be a good reason for that.