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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I would mention this as I never knew of the option before until I stumbled on them on the net a few months ago. Did both coupler blocks on the 4020 with these. Pretty happy so far. Takes about 30 minutes to do a block while on the tractor. The instructions say to remove old orings and backers but when talking with the guy at Wapsi he said you can leave them so I did. No problems so far. $500 to do a block (2 barrels). Seemed reasonable as I was considering putting on some Parker 9200 blocks and they were going to be over $600 by the time I got around to doing some hose work.

There are distributors in most provinces, but not shown on website. Mine came from Tisdale. Got them in a few days of ordering. Nice, simple solution if you don't want to reseal your original blocks for the xxx time again.

 

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Only way to fix them pos john deere blocks i have then on all my 20,30,40 series tractors. . I sell them out my shop. I've sold / installed probably 60 set in the last 2 years work great. They also just started building kits for 50,60 series tractors as well
 

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So how do those work for hooking up under pressure? Personally I really have no issue with the original Deere set up, but acknowledge a lot don't seem to get the service out of them that I do. Lets put it this way, I have way more dripping, leaking and puking oil with the Pioneer couplers on the Versy than I do with for one example, over 8000 hour untouched Deere ones and there is no question which is easier and less mess to connect under pressure, Deere wins every time. Likewise with the ones on the 4850, what goes wrong with them, I'm at 13K hours there and no probs....
Occasionally one needs to replace the oring that fits inside the barrel, but thats it for the most part. A few yes I have put kits in, as small leaks had developed where the release lever shaft goes up thru the barrel, but thats kind of a one time thing and goes for several thousands of hours afterwards again.
Many of my Deeres are still the original Deere style barrels for their special tips, even put a set of couplers that style on the one spool of the Versy so those few chisel plows and such that interchange between it and the 6030 makes it easy to hook up without adapters. Will admit life would have been a lot simpler had everyone simply used the same dam ends from the beginning lol

One thing I will add is I generally support the hoses more so than what most do, like for example, I have a support on the back of the 4850 that the hoses are hung from between the tractor and implement, biggest reason I do this is to keep the hoses from dragging on the PTO shaft, but also to keep away from the drawbar. I have often wondered, if by simply removing much of the weight from hanging off the tips plugged into the breakaways isn't part of the reason I see less issues.
Some of the best hose supports go back a long ways, Deere had a telescopic one from back in the 50s, that long predates those shorter and lower springy ones we see today. and IMO, they worked a whole lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Parker 9200 block assembly was around $550 when I checked last year. Then I need some kind of hose connection between the existing hydraulic plumbing into the Parker block. Dad put a bank of 9200 blocks on the Steiger we had many years ago and let's just say, I remember a lot of cursing and use of a hammer to do hose connections. So it was not my preferred choice.

Wapsi uses a Parker break away coupler that is off the shelf. They make a custom barrel to go inside the JD coupler block to channel oil into the coupler. So the connection of hoses under pressure is no different than what ever you are used to with newer tractors that have no levers. Just push in, pull out. So far working as they should.

I agree with what AB was saying. I didn't mind the JD couplers. I resealed the one really leaky block a few years ago and was pleased with myself for the first year. Then started leaking again and so I got thinking I should do something like new barrels next time.

What put me over the edge wasn't the leaking, it was the tendency for hoses to come out and the lever still in the open position. Last month was using the rock picker and happened about 4 times in a couple hours. While I don't mind the added lubrication on the rock picker drive chain, there comes a time when a guy likes to do it less frequently. A 1/2 gallon of oil can come out pretty quick if you don't catch on that the hose is not connected anymore while operating the hydraulic lever. Tractor has always been like that. Grandpa even had a sleeve made up to keep the one lever from turning when on, so that was about 40 years ago. It's not because hose was dragging and I even put a hose support on picker a few years ago (never had one before). So it was time for a modification. The Wapsi seems ok so far. Even if it leaks a bit in the future I am ok with that. It's the hoses coming out that was pissing me off. New barrels may have fixed that, but I figured I would like to go further than that and this conversion checked all my boxes of what I wanted to accomplish.

 

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What put me over the edge wasn't the leaking, it was the tendency for hoses to come out and the lever still in the open position. Last month was using the rock picker and happened about 4 times in a couple hours. While I don't mind the added lubrication on the rock picker drive chain, there comes a time when a guy likes to do it less frequently. A 1/2 gallon of oil can come out pretty quick if you don't catch on that the hose is not connected anymore while operating the hydraulic lever. Tractor has always been like that. Grandpa even had a sleeve made up to keep the one lever from turning when on, so that was about 40 years ago. It's not because hose was dragging and I even put a hose support on picker a few years ago (never had one before). So it was time for a modification. The Wapsi seems ok so far. Even if it leaks a bit in the future I am ok with that. It's the hoses coming out that was pissing me off. New barrels may have fixed that, but I figured I would like to go further than that and this conversion checked all my boxes of what I wanted to accomplish.
Yep, when the hose pops out and the lever stays in the open position, oh yea, you can dump a lotta oil in a hurry lol.
Its the recoil of the hoses when the valve closes that causes the barrel to jerk along with the hose which disengages the lever and then the barrel releases the tip. Biggest cause of that is that the weight of the hose is being supported by the coupler, not a support. And you need to support the hoses BETWEEN the tractor and implement, not just at the implement itself. Running a hydraulic motor is a bad one too when you stop and start it. The longer the hose, the more recoil there is. Also the more you couple a Deere coupler, the easier they are to push in and pull out. I have a few that don't get used a lot, takes a good effort to lock them in, and sometimes a carfeful tap with a drawbar pin at the front of the barrel under the SCV to get the hose to release.
The worst offender of being loose I have is number one on the 6030, and for almost thirty years, there has been a two dollar screen door spring tied from the middle with a very light chain back the roll gard that simply fits over the ends of the levers, if I pull on the hoses I can still pull them out, so in event of loss of hitch contact, the hoses will not pay the price, but that light spring is all it takes to hold them.

Now with all things considered, if one is wanting to convert the original OEM Deere barrels to ISO, then yea I can see going this route.sounds like its about the same cost as the Deere conversion. But I suppose more so where I am questioning this, is where it was mentioned there is an issue with the 50 series and newer SCVs that already have the ISO barrels, what exactly is the problem with those that they require this conversion as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kind of what I was thinking AB with the hose jumping when operating the valve. Never proved it 100% but seemed the most logical explanation. And so I figured my barrels were in need of replacement as it was getting noticeably worse recently. For me, I have just a few implements that the 4020 uses so an easy change over to ISO.

They couple fine under pressure. The usual amount of oil leaks out as pressure is relieved trying to push hose in so back of tractor is far from clean but no hose coming out yet so mission accomplished. Can't say about the newer JD couplers as I haven't been around them so can't speculate there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Barrier Valley Mechanical at 306 873 8822. Brad is his name. Ships to your PO box.
 
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