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Do you make a union for between 2 tubes?
What lengths do the tubes come in? IF they are all specially built for length, I do not want down time while I order a special length. My lengths might me 20 feet. Still working on things. Shipping in my area can add $1000 to anything over 8', so I am told.

Basically, I am installing a weed-it system that I hope to have individual nozzle control with ISO. I do not want sections. I want 2 long tubes for each side and maybe recirculation. It has a couple bend points and that is it. Weed-it sent me a box of 5 foot tubes and couple 7 foot tubes. About that length. Made for 10' spacing. I see the spacing works out perfect with a Y in place between 2 tubes. I am wondering, where is the unions?? Only way to join them that I can see is to run a hose next to them and tee off it for every tube. That is just extra stuff to go wrong. Harder to clean out....

I plan to call but figured I would post here. I might not be only one in this situation or stupid enough to not figure out how to join them. 馃ぃ Must be some standard length that can be joined for easy quick field repairs. Or a tool to do the crimp and make my own custom lengths?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you make a union for between 2 tubes?
Yup, two ways to do it though.

The 25171-00 converts one side to a 1-1/4" Quick-Nut thread, and the other would use a #25170-00, which converts the end to a 1-1/4" Quick-Nut thread. There'd be an o-ring between the two.
The only downside is that you'd have to give the tubes slack when you are tightening. The threads/fittings wouldn't be able to comfortably force like a 1/4" gap between the tubes (either away from eachother, or off-center of eachother). So, loosen the boom clamps first, then attach and align the tubes, then tighten stuff back up.

Parts required for quick-Nut version:
1x 25171-00 (split ring threaded adapter to male thread)
1x 25170-00 (2pc female thread nut that slips over the tube end and you'd pop in the tension ring to hold it onto the tube)
1x 25160-02 (o-ring for between the two tube ends)

It'd also be an option in the new Quick-Flange parts though, It'd be the same parts for either our Quick-Nut tube ends or Case TWS ends. it'd convert the end to two flange-compatible parts, and you'd just gasket and clamp the two tubes together. Pretty darn solid.

Wilger part#s required:
2x 27312-00 (this converts the ends to a tube end. one for each tube end)
1x 27310-00 (clamp, or any other 1" flange clamp)
1x 27318-00 (gasket, for Quick-Nut SST rolled ends; also available for case TWS, but it'd be part# 27319-00)


There is a third way that'd be coming out in the next while (probably not in time for spring), but it'd effectively change the end of the tube to a flanged end without any threads/flared ends. Just have the hole (or two) in the boom pipe, and it'd pretty much do the same as the 27312-00 pair. This 'cut-pipe' version is moreso for boom end nozzle bodies and such like that to cut down boom length for really compact and full drain ends without deadspace, or retrofitting easily to a recirc layout)

Let me know if that makes sense enough. I can probably scrounge up a picture or two if stuff isn't quite clear.

-Lucas
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ah yes, if you were intending to do something like retro-fit existing plumbing parts to a recirc kit, the ~4" gap between the center-fed Tee cause grief, if that is the situation you are in. Given the length of hose barb ends, there isn't enough room for that.

Something I hadn't really tried but could try would be to have a 4" length of the tube (just rolled ends on both sides) and to use that as a 'Tee replacer' so you wouldn't have to do anything more complicated.
If you aren't in the situation I describe, ignore my ramblings. Haha.

EDIT: I just saw you edited for your first post with a lot more info. I'll take a read and respond accordingly.


As far as an 'in the field repair', you'd be looking at the third option that'd be coming out in a bit (just waiting on tooling/molds to be finished). It'd be adaptable to any 1" tube/pipe (1.315" OD). It'd just use a 3/8" hole to hold onto the tube/pipe, and you'd end up with a 1" flange end to connect whatever you'd need to.

For your situation with the 'gap' inbetween where they should connect, you are probably seeing where a Tee should be, but they might not have passed one on as they might be in 1" HB or 1-1/4" HB maybe? Not sure.

Maybe give me a call (either me in Canada, or Chris @ US office), and we can work you through it. The folks in TN do a ton more boom tubes out of the factory there, and if you are getting them shipped in US, they might be the guys to talk to, but I don't mind being a sounding board to make sure things make sense to you.

US Number: 1 877 968 7695
CDN: 1 833 242 4121
 

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There are the only other methods we came up with to join tubes directly. Given the cost of freight for anything over 8', 4" spacer tubes sound wonderful to join tubes.

This has given time to get a close look and thought about the system. I do really like it. By far the lightest system I have seen.
 

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Looking forward to hearing how the Greenseeker boom works out for you. I talked to a Hutterite this spring about their setup. He says it's very effective for pre-seed burn off when you turn the sensitivity up. I kind of wondered about that as I can see clear as day in the spring where even a late fall glyphosate application goes down even though often I can't see anything growing with my eyes.

For no till operations, it should pay for itself this year with glyphosate suddenly one of the most expensive applications on the farm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
There are the only other methods we came up with to join tubes directly. Given the cost of freight for anything over 8', 4" spacer tubes sound wonderful to join tubes.

This has given time to get a close look and thought about the system. I do really like it. By far the lightest system I have seen.
Thanks for the pictures. I was actually thinking the two hose barbs would put you over 10", so, that is pretty nice solution right there.

The only concern with the tube extension would be that trying to fix a fixed tube to a shorter fixed tube to a longer fixed tube would be that it could cause a fair bit of stress that would try to pull those parts together. As long as you put special care into making sure those tube extensions are tightened nicely without any offset or tension in the boom clamps, it'd be as good as you can get it.

Alternatively, the hose barbs, while not being ideal looking does relieve that tension between the two longer tubes. It'd give flexibility and wouldn't strain the joint fittings near as bad as two fixed joints on either side of a fixed tube. I was thinking the hose barbs would have been too long to maintain 10" spacing, so I kind of took them off the table for that reason alone. They'd probably be the most foolproof option, despite the looks and downsides of boom hygiene/etc.

For those hose barbs, even though the tube is listed as a 1" tube, it actually has an ID closer to 1-1/4" for high flow situations, so for those hose barbs, you could up-size them to 1-1/4" hose barb size to alleviate any restrictions in the boom that might make it harder for chem to flush/drain. I don't think the length of the HB fitting was changing between 1" and 1-1/4" size.

I can even move this post into the Sprayers section as a LOT more guys are looking at retrofitting recirc kits, but most sprayer sections will still be center-fed, so the use of a 4" short pipe or hose barbs that are short enough might be helpful to some. Those handful of 4" short pipes could end up saving thousands in boom tube/pipe if the original boom pipe is still OK.
 

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Looking forward to hearing how the Greenseeker boom works out for you. I talked to a Hutterite this spring about their setup. He says it's very effective for pre-seed burn off when you turn the sensitivity up. I kind of wondered about that as I can see clear as day in the spring where even a late fall glyphosate application goes down even though often I can't see anything growing with my eyes.

For no till operations, it should pay for itself this year with glyphosate suddenly one of the most expensive applications on the farm.
I would like to be seeding now. Knowing the cost savings. I plan to wait a bit and get this system running. I have heard of 96% savings in fallow for later season passes. 40% savings preseed with a blanket spray and spotting what green it sees. I did had one guy tell me he has gone to only spot spraying preseed. Cutting my chem bill by 70% or more this year will pay for the system and likely have cleaner fields.
 
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