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Yep , if it was petrol I would probably suggest filling the tank with exhaust, if your more than 6 inches from the tank no problem, if its a poly tank I would put a spark shield between it and your welding.
 

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Yep , if it was petrol I would probably suggest filling the tank with exhaust, if your more than 6 inches from the tank no problem, if its a poly tank I would put a spark shield between it and your welding.
I hope you meant diesel exhaust fumes, I think petrol fumes are explosive
 

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I would prefer to run a 6010 root pass and fill with 7018 after "V'ing the crack out. Mig, as in hard wire isn't as forgiving in a frame that flexes.

I use CO2 or Argon to purge diesel tanks, any exhaust gas should work. Gas tanks I won't touch, steaming is supposed to work, it still scares me. Metal is porous and small gas pockets can be stored.

Years ago an older welder who worked at a Mine told me to fill up a diesel fuel tank then start welding, if a flame bursts out, weld until it quits. The first time gets your blood flowing. 😀
 

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Steaming of the tank is the safest way if your welding on the tank....then you use a sniffer to detect residual levels in the tank to see if it is clear or not. If not steam some more. Where I used to work we fixed fuel tanks all the time for various coop's, and the Esso, Shell etc local fuel distributers. Never an issue if done right.
 

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Mig should be fine for welding the frame, the rest of the trailer was most likely welded with a mig at the factory and it could have been welded by anyone’s from an apprentice to a certified welder. I’ve Welded many steel diesel tanks, just fill the tank with fuel first, only ever welded one gas tank, the filler neck cracked and the guy who owned it took it off and had it filled with water when I got there. Have done a few tanks on pressure trucks or tank trucks too, usually have them fill with water just above the crack, the odd time if it’s a hole, a shop vac tied to the vent line is enough to cavitate the tank and hold the water from coming out the hole.
 
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