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What does everyone else use for tips for spraying fungicide and what water rates do you use? First time doing or own crops as we got a high clearance sprayer this spring. Usually just do what an agronomist says and when he says to do it. What is the best timing to spray? Have some barley on barley that has some disease setting in. Should I just wait till the flag leaf or in head? Haven't done alot of fungicide before but now with or own sprayer it's a little easier to justify the cost without having to pay someone to do it.
 

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I'm using hypro twin caps. They have two flat fan nozzles one pointed back one forward in the same cap. You can replace the flat fan tips in the caps fairly cheap. 20 gal water at heading 10 gal on flag.

Smart move on your part by getting your own sprayer to do timely fungicide applications.
 

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I think barley is at flag leaf, I recommend priaxor for barley and if you have wheat I recommend persaro and wheat you want to hit about 20-30% flower so basically the headlands will be flowering and some side hills and such and about 15-20 will not be headed and remember its better to be early than late, there is possibility to loose yield if too late. I recommend getting your agronomist out there asap to help you determine when to apply, the Windows of opportunity are very short especially if the temps are 85+ f

I think they might be made by hypro but not sure I am using John Deere air induction fungicide nozzles, 12 gal is about the minimum, I will run that if I have alot ready but if I can help it I run 15 gal. Coverage is everything, I recommend running no more than 11-12 MPH as it will tend to drift a lot if you go much faster. If wind is over 10 mph I will use anti drift, I prefer to keep the droplets as small as possible so I avoid using it if I can.

Fungicide passes are the best bang for your buck yield wise, downfall is that as the yield goes up the protein seems to fall, see how things go for ya but I recommend using more N later on, I started split applications to help reach both potentials.

Hope this helps, happy to dish out my experience with it, it has been very good, you will be surprised how fast that sprayer will make its way, and remember don't sweat the wheel tracks they just make the neighbor wonder what hes doing wrong, haha
 

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I spray fungicides on cereals when the heads are out and on canola when it's 30% flowering
Use the guardian air twin nozzles (they are deere nozzles actually made by hypro)
10 gallons per acre 14 to 16 mph
Avoid spraying when it's too hot out (25C is cuttoff temp), it will cause leaf burn, lately that means a lot of evening/nighttime spraying.
 

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Best site for spraying info. Sprayers 101 Have an article on nozzles and coverage Believe air induced nozzles had best coverage. Not an expert but from reading and my experience, water volume >10 gallon and breeze while spraying help coverage. Consistent boom height critical as well. This is where spraying slower helps. Barley be prepared for second growth in sprayer tracks.
 

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That would be it, the longer you can keep the flagleaf in good shape the longer it will fill. Last year in one of my old mans test strips the wheat in it was ready for harvest 10 days sooner, at harvest the flagleaf was completely gone deteriorating the canopy an causing all sorts of weeds to grow in that strip. It is amazing what good fungicide and timely application can do for your crop
 

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That would be it, the longer you can keep the flagleaf in good shape the longer it will fill. Last year in one of my old mans test strips the wheat in it was ready for harvest 10 days sooner, at harvest the flagleaf was completely gone deteriorating the canopy an causing all sorts of weeds to grow in that strip. It is amazing what good fungicide and timely application can do for your crop
thanks for that! we use a lot for rust suppression, and thinking we should be doing more later in season.
 

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Few ways to approach spraying fungicide:

1. Split tips.
Since it is fungicide, you don't have to worry about drift so much as you would with herbicides. But, drift is still wasted chemical, so you want to get something inbetween drifting (waste) and getting great coverage.

There's a few options in the market (Hypro split-cap, Wilger y-Adapter, Teejet Twin Turbo), and some of those allow for drift reduction caps to be used. From what I've seen from testing, it seems having a shallower angled tip works better, and the tip pointed forwards does the majority of the work. With that in mind, I'd recommend splitting the volume up somewhere between 50/50 or 70% front/ 30% Rear for the tips. Also, if you are using conventional flat fan tips (not drift reduction), keep in mind that is going to mean you are getting a lot more drift than if it was coming from one tip.

If you have AIM, you wouldn't be able to use air induction tips, so your options would probably be Wilger drift reduction tips (same results as AI) or using conventional flat fan and dealing with a lot more drift.

2. Single Tip - Coarser Tip. Higher Water volume.
Since you need coverage everywhere and you are using a coarser tip (or even a regular tip at higher volumes will produce coarser droplets than recommended for fungicide), you will need to compensate and use more water volume than you might have otherwise. (Sometimes, this might mean sticking to the label rate, rather than cutting water down like most guys might)

There's a few ways to optimize this setup as well to make it work pretty darn close to using a dual tip setup.

First is adjusting the spray angle. From testing, it seemed like even using a single tip rotated forward (~30°) will optmize your coverage for most fungicide applications (i.e. head blight, hitting the flag leaf, etc.). Essentially what happens is the sprayer speed (10+MPH) causes the spray pattern to pretty much travel horizontal. Provided spray height is consistent, and at the right height, having that spray going horizontal will make it a lot easier to hit your target. This might be a little different for rust suppression, as you need pretty decent canopy penetration, but I'm sure you can still cater to your application.

As far as an anecdote for this, think about trying to karate chop a head of wheat in the field, while travelling 10MPH+. Now, try swat at it with a fly swatter.
Which is easier to hit the head?

In Saskatchewan at least (I know some testing had been done in the US as well), Tom Wolfe and PAMI (Prairie Agricultural Machine Institute) are doing testing for Wilger (and a handful of other major tip manufacturers) to determine what the best way of fungicide spraying would be. From my understanding, this information will become public when it is all said an done as well, so we will wait and see. The first set of 'in-lab' testing has already been done, and the first set of 'in-crop' testing has been done and data is being accumulated. The intent is to do another round of in-lab and in-crop testing next year as well. (Maybe a third year if needed as well)
 

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Forgot to mention. If you are looking at picking tips for fung, check out tip-wizard. It shows Wilger tips, but it at least gives you an idea of the type of tip that you'd be using. (You'd just have to recognize an ER series of tip would be your basic conventional flat fan, MR would be the same result as ABJ/AI and DR would be the same as your bigger AIXR tips - for the SR, there isn't really a comparison in the market, as it reduces a ton of drift (~50%) from a conventional flat fan but still provides better coverage than your regular AI/ABJ tips)

The only thing extra that you'd need to know is your target droplet size in microns. A lot of the time labels will have a category (fine/medium/coarse, etc), but those are pretty broad categories. Depending on what chem you are using, you'd probably be trying to get a droplet size of somewhere between 200-250 microns.

Other than that, you'd just need to plug in your application speed/rate/etc, and there ya go. (I had posted a Tip Wizard FAQ guide somewhere on the forums as well - I think I reposted it in the forums sponsors section as well if you wanted to take a look)

You can find it at Wilger - Home.
 

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I really like the quote on option 2

It was 88F yesterday, a neighbor has striped rust beginning and coming in fast, mine is looking good yet we used priaxor at flagleaf and it was time for persaro and I really couldn't miss the window of opportunity so I didn't end up with his mess

I slowed way up and kicked the water to 20 gal (not what I wanted to do as feilds are extremely wet so small batches it was). While I am hard at it the neighbor across the road rolls up with his sprayer, I noticed flat fan nozzles right away but what ever I guess, than he did the whole qtr on one tank!! His JD only has a 1200 gal tank and he was on the same wet ground as I with 320s on that Deere so there is no possible way that thing came there and left without getting stuck with a full tank

I will be watching closely to see what kind of leaf burn he ends up with, I am willing to bet since planes run 5 gal he figures he can too
 
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