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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to look at a 1440 combine with between 3000 and 3500 hrs on it. what do I need to look for in this combine as far as wear and by his many hours what is due to be replaced or should be replaced?
thanks
DM01
 

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I'd look at all the augers, elevators ( chains, sprockets, paddles) Feeder house bottom, Rock trap beaters, shaker bushings, Rotor, (Elephant ears, rasp bars) also look at the concaves and Wood bearings on the auger bed augers. good luck to you
 

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Here is a list of repairs/upgrades that I have made on my 1660 since I bought it at 3500 engine hrs that I have posted on other threads when people ask what to look for. It should give you a good idea of what to look at. If you have a combine mechanic that you trust, it would be well worth it to pay him to look at the machine you are looking at.
> 2002:
> Bought from Tri County with 3500 hrs
> All new augers
> New transition cone
> New elevator chains
> 2003:
> New tires
> New elephant ears and rasp bars
> 2004:
> Rebuilt and hard surfaced concaves
> Rebuilt clean grain auger trough
> New feeder chain
> New reverser motor
> 2005:
> Traded for 20ft header
> New unloading auger elbow
> New water pump
> 2006:
> New hydrostat and coupler
> New top chaffer screen
> 2007:
> Completely new and updated extended wear unloading system (augers,
> tubes, gearboxes)
> Poly liner in grain tank
> New boot on bottom of vertical auger
> New rear axle
> Painted with new decals
> New cab interior
> 2008:
> Stewert steel excellerator auger front end on rotor
> New rasp bars and kickers
> New bushings and bolts in rotor drive hub
> New feeder chain
> New tri-rib pulley on feeder with bearings and belt
> Separator and rotor drive reworked
> New unloading auger cable
replaced separator drive pulleys
> 2009
> Reworked feeder (floor, bearings, drum, and faceplate)
> Wooden blocks on bed augers
> Bottom of clean grain elevator replaced
> Injector pump and injectors rebuilt
> New hydraulic pump
> New oil pump
installed air ride seat
new starter
> GS2 yield monitor
> Rebuilt spreaders
> New rotor belt
> HID light
> Spare alternator

2010

rebuilt hydrostat
replaced flex plate in pto and replaced rear main seal in engine
new rotor drive coupler and bushings
new seive bushings
new feeder sprockets and silencer kit
new feeder chain
new rotor drive cover
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Man thats a lot of stuff.

I don't have any people close to me that know anything about rotor bines. I have only sat in a few IH combines. I have worked on a lot of gleaner and JD combines. I went and looked at the 1440 yesterday. I't looks in good shape for the year. 1981 I believe is what he told me. It looks like it needs new elevator chains here shortly I don't know if the feeder house chain was replaced or not I'll have to call him. I know the rotor has never been out of the combine which kinda worries me cause I know they can be $$ to rebuild. its got new sieves and they replaced one of the bottom augers and rebuilt the hydro's and the transmission. this combine is 4wd and has a turbo. it needs new rear tires but the fronts are pretty good.

we don't do many acres of grain about 200 at the most.
I hope it turns out to be a dependable combine. My dad and I always wanted a IH combine,
thanks
DM01
 

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If you only have 200 acres it's not going to kill you to wait until a part is obviously wore out or breaks to replace it. I have to cover 1500 acres with my 1660 and I can't afford to have any breakdowns so I do a lot of preventive maintenance and replace a lot of parts that may still have some life left if I feel that they could cause a problem that year. If I were you I wouldn't worry too much unless it is obviously wore out. And since you've been around combines before, you will know wore out when you see it, doesn't matter if it's galvanized, green or red. I would say specifically check the elepant ears (needs to have a square leading edge or it won't feed near as well) and the hydrostat coupler. If the coupler has play on the splines replace it immediately or you'll wind up replacing the hydro shaft too, probably after the machine stopped in the worst possible place
 

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Discussion Starter #8
AHHH I'm so nervous. I really like the combine but its a big buy for me.
And the fact that I don't know anything about the 1440 is driving me nuts. It would be better if I knew anybody close to me that worked on them. Its all Green country around here and I can't afford to pay a dealer to work on it for me.

Somebody's gonna have to talk me into buying this combine!! lol

Is $8,500 a fair price for a 81 1440 with a 820 16.5' head which is not in the best of shape. it works but would be more in line of a parts header. the guy is also throwing in a header cart which he gave around 1,000 for. The combine it in pretty nice shape

problems I see
AC don't work
needs a new feeder house chain
needs both elevator chains
clean grain auger

everything to my knowledge is ok other than what is listed.
its got 3500hrs.
am I getting a deal or paying what its worth or should I offer less???
The guy is on this site so don't be too hard lol
Thanks
guys
DM01
 

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I think that's a very fair price for that machine or even on the cheap side. So it's either a great deal or there are problems with it that you don't know about.

If it makes you feel any better, I bought my first combine in 2003. Never been around ANY combine before since we only raised cotton. Needless to say there were many growing pains along the way. But I must say that the IH 14 or 16 series are the best combines to learn on. Very simple, straightforward and forgiving. Very easy to work on. But we got through the first years just fine(1000-1200 acres/year with a 1660) With minimal dealer help and the 1660 is still going strong. It does take some money to keep it in tip top shape but I wouldn't trade it for any other brand. I still think it would be worth your time and money to get a mechanic to look it over. The problems you listed are easy fixes but there could be more involved to those repairs than just what you listed such as worn tin, bearing, sprockets, etc. 90% of the time you'll find other problem areas as you dig.

But for that price, I wouldn't be nervous at all. There will be a learning curve but not near as big as you fear. The owners manual details a lot of what you need to know and you have a great resource on this website.

But before you buy it, get the owner to show you how to change a rotor belt and take notes. It gets easier after about the 8th time. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I seen a few places where the tin was pretty thin. do they selll replacement tin or kits to fix those problem areas? whats the hadest tin to replace? Thats kinda why I'm selling my 4420 JD its got under 3000 hrs but its got major tin issues in the grain bin and tailings augers. plus its just a little bit too small for my farm. its don't dump into my grain cart or semi trailer very well.
Thanks
DM01
 

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This machine sounds almost Identical to my machine. Just about the same hours and everything. Just like Robmgrig I hadn't even been around a combine. I converted the air to a 134a system. All of the worn out parts on my machine have been available through the dealer and other parts houses. My 1440 is also a 81 model. My header had a bunch of wear on it, so I bought a 2004 1010 header and it really made a lot of difference on my machine. Every year I have picked one area and focused on fixing all of the small things on it. By doing it this way I have been able to fix most of the problems and not spend too much each year.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
its just hard going to the field with a new combine and not know anything about itt. something might break and what may just take a few hours for somebody who has access to a mechanic or person (in the know) might take me a few days. But I always wanted a axle flow so now I'm putting out the word that my JD is for sale!!
thanks guys
DM01
 

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Way to go dodgeman I know your feelings. My dealership's closest store is 80 miles away so they just don't run up here for the heck of it. And all of my neighbors have green machines. so I didn't have much help to learn how to run it. The first year I cut pretty slow compared to what I do now, Good luck to you.
 
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