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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I have done a few pieces of equipment with same results as the pictures. Painted steel or fiberglass with same results. Two step cut and polish then a sealer. Random orbit polisher, foam pads, etc. Done vehicles also and never burned any paint. It's farm equipment, if you are going to damage paint then there is no better place to do it. I suppose I could burn some if I really put a good effort into accomplishing that goal.

Years ago I ordered a bunch of supplies from an online distributor in Canada and use the Chemical Guys brand, something like a 2.5 for rougher cut, then a fine polish with recommended pads for each one. I haven't resealed/waxed since doing this work a few years earlier. Probably should but it is not high on my to do list.

I don't have enough hours in my life to dedicate to polishing farm equipment so wearing down the paint is never going to happen.
What do you mean theres no better place to do it? I watched a video i took them 11 mins to burn through with a random orbital in a single concentrated spot so that gave me some reassurance. I think canadian tire in my town sells chemical guys stuff
 

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I mean, would you rather screw up a tractor fender or the hood of a 3 year old car.

If you trade in a tractor with a discolored patch of paint 6" round, will the market value be effected in any way? I would say pink paint on the entire thing maybe lowers tade value but a high gloss shine with one burnt patch maybe gets you a higher trade value if anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I mean, would you rather screw up a tractor fender or the hood of a 3 year old car.

If you trade in a tractor with a discolored patch of paint 6" round, will the market value be effected in any way? I would say pink paint on the entire thing maybe lowers tade value but a high gloss shine with one burnt patch maybe gets you a higher trade value if anything.
For sure I dont think it would burn very easy. Its never been touched with polish so still should have pretty much the same thickness of paint as out of the factory. Btw beauty profile pic
 

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I have an electronic tool to measure paint thickness
some paint takes a long time to burn through and some is so thin that a finishing polis can remove too much
your paint on the swather is single stage
my procedure was about 7 steps but that’s all I’ll say about that. Just a good wash should remove some of the oxidation
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I have an electronic tool to measure paint thickness
some paint takes a long time to burn through and some is so thin that a finishing polis can remove too much
your paint on the swather is single stage
my procedure was about 7 steps but that’s all I’ll say about that. Just a good wash should remove some of the oxidation
What do u mean it is single stage? we bought tandt cleaner to try and help all it did was wash all the dirt and oil off. soon as it dried it just looked looked cleaner with bad oxidation lol
 

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Did you do a step one or just the bottle you have on the fender?
No. I just used that bottle on the fender first and used a polisher at 1200 rpm to apply it. Wiped it off with a micro fibre cloth and then hand applied Adam’s butter wax. That’s what I had on hand and tried it. Looked great all year and still looks good.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tractor
 

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Single stage paint is basically basic paint or paint with clear mixed in. It won’t show swirls etc. clear coat is what todays autos have. When polishing todays autos you’re polishing the clear coat not the actual paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
No. I just used that bottle on the fender first and used a polisher at 1200 rpm to apply it. Wiped it off with a micro fibre cloth and then hand applied Adam’s butter wax. That’s what I had on hand and tried it. Looked great all year and still looks good. View attachment 166482
Ah you use the maguire then apply the wax by hand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
it Could if you use the correct combination of polishes, pads and speed.it’s an art. You can make it look fabulous or make it look better but not great. So many factors
Im thinking of using either rupes which i can get of amazon for very good price or can go to town and get some maguires. and then get appropriate pads for each. DO you think heavy cut is need or will a finishing/medium cut work good then wax
 

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Ah you use the maguire then apply the wax by hand?
Yes. The wax went on by hand. Fenders and hood workout out great but the top of the cab didn’t come out as good though but whatever. Nobody sees the top anyways. Purchased this tractor faded that way 10 years ago. Case has poor paint compared to other lines but if I knew it was that easy I would have polished it years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Yes. The wax went on by hand. Fenders and hood workout out great but the top of the cab didn’t come out as good though but whatever. Nobody sees the top anyways. Purchased this tractor faded that way 10 years ago. Case has poor paint compared to other lines but if I knew it was that easy I would have polished it years ago.
👍🏻 Do you think I would need a 2 step or just go right to finishing/ fine cut and then wax er up?
 

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I don't know if a guy needs a heavy cut. It would save some work perhaps. A medium cut gets you 90% of the way there and the haze you don't get out that a heavy cut would have done better is only something you would see up close with a light and actually looking for the haze. I am talking about a tractoran d not a show car so I don't worry about the last little haze. A fine cut after a medium cut is needed to get out the haze from the initial polish though.

I first started by looking at the hood on the stx450 and saying to myself if I can do anything. So I took some plain old meguirs, a rag, and 10 seconds with my hand and cleaned off a couple spots. I then had my answer. After that, I got stuff ordered up and went to work. For the Poor Boys it is usually a 2 or 2.5 then the 1 for polish and a hand wax/sealer. The JD would have been the 2 then 1 but before sealer. The Steiger was likely the finished job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I don't know if a guy needs a heavy cut. It would save some work perhaps. A medium cut gets you 90% of the way there and the haze you don't get out that a heavy cut would have done better is only something you would see up close with a light and actually looking for the haze. I am talking about a tractoran d not a show car so I don't worry about the last little haze. A fine cut after a medium cut is needed to get out the haze from the initial polish though.

I first started by looking at the hood on the stx450 and saying to myself if I can do anything. So I took some plain old meguirs, a rag, and 10 seconds with my hand and cleaned off a couple spots. I then had my answer. After that, I got stuff ordered up and went to work. For the Poor Boys it is usually a 2 or 2.5 then the 1 for polish and a hand wax/sealer. The JD would have been the 2 then 1 but before sealer. The Steiger was likely the finished job.
Oh ok so you did a medium then a fine then wax?
 
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