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Wing pivot bushing replacement flexicoil 5000

3449 Views 11 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  brandttravis40
Hey all,
I bought this drill a few years ago and just noticed near then end of last that I could see daylight through what should be some sort of bushing I’m sure. It’s directly under the wing lift cylinders off the main frame the last row of shanks, I’ll attach a picture.

I guess the big question is has anyone had to replace these? And I guess any pointers would be great. I’m thinking about lifting the drill all the way up, build up a pad and lower the wing down with one or two bottle jacks. Not sure if I should have one in front and one in the back or have one under every pivot on the wing.
Also would this have any effect on uneven seeding depth? It’s a new to me air drill and stepping up from a box drill it was hard to exactly see what I was looking for but starting to think I should’ve bought something else as I don’t think it has been looked after very well previously unfortunately
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I have to replace one as well, probably do both if the first goes well. From what I have seen is it would likely hurt seed placement somewhat. It seems to flex moreso when lifting the wings.
do it on a level pad, fold out ,remove pin from wing. use a bottle jack and lift wing joint up and as high as you can. mark the old hinge using new one for a template. Cut out and grind.Lower the wing down and measure the height of the main frame and adjust the wing frame to same height. Measure the distance from the main frame to the wing frame on other side and with a comealong adjust so the space is the same, make sure frames are square and true to each other . Fit new socket in new frame , some grinding might be needed, center it and place good tacks around and on all sides.
remove pin and jack up wing so to get a good weld around on both sides.
It is kind of a bearing if I am looking at the right one. I have done a couple. Not to horrible. Not really any tips. Not even sure what I did off the top of my head. It is important to get it replaced.
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The bushings circled in red are much more important than the ones circled in green. Be sure to check them all.
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Done them many many times on a 800 flex cult. There a ****. Bushing and couple of washers. Think later on we had a welding shop make up the bushings.
Jack all and elbow grease I guess I have done worse jobs but seemed we had to do a couple each year and I hope who ever came up with the idea of s of locking nuts is roasting in hell. No fun not being able to use an impact
DWF1990 are the bushings you are worried about are they any of the ones that are circled in the above post?
We made our own bushings as well for the main frame hinge. The factory ones are to light. Well in its defense we were mid row banding with it like 4-5” deep.
Those rock shaft bushings can be replaced by drilling and removing the old ones and leaving that pin in place. Because those pins do NOT want to come out.
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Sorry yes it is the one closest to the back circled in green, looking in the parts book it is listed as bushing tension ext. groove 2.25 OD and bushing spherical 2”od x1.25 sealed so I think that sounds like a bearing to me! The hinge pin assembly circled in red all appear to be new, I had a quick peek tonight as it was getting dark and I can’t really tell if there is much slop or play in there how would I check those to make sure? I did however note the pins are welded to I’m guessing washers or the bushing itself?
Thanks for all the reply’s I feel I am heading in some sort of direction now!
Sorry yes it is the one closest to the back circled in green, looking in the parts book it is listed as bushing tension ext. groove 2.25 OD and bushing spherical 2”od x1.25 sealed so I think that sounds like a bearing to me! The hinge pin assembly circled in red all appear to be new, I had a quick peek tonight as it was getting dark and I can’t really tell if there is much slop or play in there how would I check those to make sure? I did however note the pins are welded to I’m guessing washers or the bushing itself?
Thanks for all the reply’s I feel I am heading in some sort of direction now!
I used too work at the factory. The ones in the green circles except the last row were just a see bushing that was hit in. It was an alligator type that you would press together with a vice grip and tap in. The rear bar had a bearing that would be put in when the drill was set up. The large pins on the rock shaft have been modified. They should just have a washer with a snap ring and not be welded. The bushings were a woven nylon self lubricating bushing.
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Also check where the 4x4 that hold the shanks are attached to the bars that run from the front to the back. They are attached by a pin. Where the pin is attached the hole can get sloppy. People have welded hardened washers there to reduce the play.
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