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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for a 60ft airdrill. Currently have a Flexicoil 5000 with tow behind cart. How are the wingback drills for transport and getting into field approaches? Would have a tow behind cart again on the newer drill. Do they flex as good as the 5000s in hilly ground?
 

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We run a 70 foot with a tow between tank, and liquid fert behind the drill. Tows just fine, but I have to put a couple extra miles on every year to get to roads that are wide enough to turn onto without being in the ditch. Doubt it would be a problem with the drill right behind the tractor though.

Getting into and out of fields is easy, but it can be a bit of a pain to get drill folded up if the ground is super wet. Tires don't want to pivot very well in the mud and the rams didn't have enough juice to pull them out of the holes I'd made. Just had to unfold and try again in a different spot and things were fine.

The fold/unfold setup is alright, but definitely not as dummy-proof as just pulling back on a hydraulic lever in the tractor. If you know what you're doing it's fine but if you have different people running the drill all the time I could see it being a pain. To fold up you have to cycle hydraulics to get drill to lift up high enough to get out and lock the rock shaft, hop back in tractor to go through fold up sequence, drive ahead to lock tires in for transport, then get out again to put travel pins in. The travel pins aren't necessary I guess, but I put them in every time I road the drill.

They follow the hills okay, not going to be as nice as a precision opener but does a decent job. It will struggle if you have lots of steep potholes smaller than the drill though, you'll end up with part of the drill out of the ground in spots if that's the case.

If you're looking at used ones, make sure you give all the packer wheels a wiggle. I had to change a bunch of bearings out this spring before we started and it was a pretty greasy shitty job. Would say the drill had roughly 20-25k acres on it before they needed any attention.
 

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I have one. Gets in the field ok. The folding. If you get ruts like said above just drive forward a foot it will start to fold back. The depth adjuster on the hitch is ****. Get cylinder stops then it’s makes a good seed depth mine is a 2008 80000 acers on it change the barring in the parking wheels at 65000 acers and white shims. Change I think every U blot on there and welded in places. Hitch. Back hitch. Fram. And here and there. Needs new tiers on main frame now. I’m not getting rid of the drill. Good for another 80000 acers. I pulled off some wicked crops with this drill. But I get rain. Rain makes grain. You know?
 

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If you only want 60’ I’d stick to a 5000. I have a 70’ with tow between, if the road slopes to one side it will hang out but I don’t lock front castors. I jus a ratchet strap to hold the wings in because of wear in the frame brackets where the cylinders pull. I had to put tubes in the tyres the second year because even at 60psi tyres would get pushed off the rims when folding or reversing in sand and I have lots of sand. The wheels are to small for 17 tonnes. Had one of the locking cylinders up the front of the drawbar fail, driver didn’t know and by the end of the day had done a lot of damage, I had to make a new centre rockshaft and cut the end off and reweld it to take the twist out. There’s plenty more but have had it since 2011 and it’s not going anywhere soon
 

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We run a 70 foot with a tow between tank, and liquid fert behind the drill. Tows just fine, but I have to put a couple extra miles on every year to get to roads that are wide enough to turn onto without being in the ditch. Doubt it would be a problem with the drill right behind the tractor though.

Getting into and out of fields is easy, but it can be a bit of a pain to get drill folded up if the ground is super wet. Tires don't want to pivot very well in the mud and the rams didn't have enough juice to pull them out of the holes I'd made. Just had to unfold and try again in a different spot and things were fine.

The fold/unfold setup is alright, but definitely not as dummy-proof as just pulling back on a hydraulic lever in the tractor. If you know what you're doing it's fine but if you have different people running the drill all the time I could see it being a pain. To fold up you have to cycle hydraulics to get drill to lift up high enough to get out and lock the rock shaft, hop back in tractor to go through fold up sequence, drive ahead to lock tires in for transport, then get out again to put travel pins in. The travel pins aren't necessary I guess, but I put them in every time I road the drill.

They follow the hills okay, not going to be as nice as a precision opener but does a decent job. It will struggle if you have lots of steep potholes smaller than the drill though, you'll end up with part of the drill out of the ground in spots if that's the case.

If you're looking at used ones, make sure you give all the packer wheels a wiggle. I had to change a bunch of bearings out this spring before we started and it was a pretty greasy shitty job. Would say the drill had roughly 20-25k acres on it before they needed any attention.
Little trick we used to do when folding that drill. When still in field position, back up to flip all the castor wheels around. Then when you fold they don't have to pivot around and folds in easier.
 

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Yeah I worked on the rock shaft too. It’s not a independent drill by any means. But they could of Made it a little better. The opener makes a difference too. I have 3.5” par row dutch openers.
 

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How good is the depth control with these drills compared to a 5000 drill? Is it better or worse than a 5000 for depth control and seeding consistency.
 

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bought a 2015 70 10 inch because of price and wanted paired row for cereals. had dutch low draft plows on it and seed placement was a suggestion, we put stealth on and great improvement. keep speed down and good drill. To help prevent rockshaft damage when changing anything on hydraulics disconnect all the rams and cycle the unit six or seven times, it gives procedure in manual and it is important as the modules are not in series but parallel
 

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I run the first gen of these drills, a 7500 60ft with a 3450 tbh tank.. Its wide, one nice thing about them is you might as well run triples on the tractor the drill will take just as much road. They take a little getting use to, looks like a wet noodle in the hills. As said by everyone above, fold unfold takes getting the hang of, and if you rush you can screw stuff up. Raise very nice soybeans and barley with it.. 10" spacing 5" Stealth openers. Steel packers, not sure if they are better but its what we have..I do think they are heavier than a 5000.
 

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The first Gen looks a little clumsy. The new Gen is better I like the new Gen because it’s not high and wide it’s as wide as a tractor with 800 Metrics. The openers I guess it depends on ground conditions.
 

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I've owned these drills since they came out and really no drama. IMO when properly set up and run, they are far more precise than the 5000 which I've owned several of before the precision drills. Should be noted that I've only run the Concord style packer systems. I'm running the Low Draft openers on my present drill and think the drill performs much better with these than with more aggressive Dutch openers I've previously used, which were harder to keep consistent depth across the width of the drill in varying soil conditions and seeding depths.

As far as fold out, its much easier with a tow behind tank when you have a good view of the tool. The first year of Precision drill several had been delivered with the rockshafts incorrectly installed: that is, the draglinks traveled upward from the rockshaft arms instead of "hanging" from them. Unfortunately I received one of these and had seeded quite a few acres with the not so Precise drill before the bulletin came in. Of coarse I had been the only one complaining about the drills poor performance up until that time.

The depth control, being similar to the 5000, there is definitely room for improvement. Though on average it works surprisingly well for the primitive system that it is. What can affect it are hydraulic rate like when the oil is cold in the morning. By the hydraulics being slower it may stop at a slightly higher spot. This usually show up on the tractors power level. But being aware of this you can usually squeeze it down to its proper level by pushing down momentarily on the control.

In general they are a great drill if run properly and a good value, and don't have the wear issues a lot of independent opener drills do.
 

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Looking for a 60ft airdrill. Currently have a Flexicoil 5000 with tow behind cart. How are the wingback drills for transport and getting into field approaches? Would have a tow behind cart again on the newer drill. Do they flex as good as the 5000s in hilly ground?
What about a very clean, shedded, all rebuilt BG 5710 59' on 12.6" space with new 6" pneumatic packers? Has rebuilt MRB 25 so you can put all your fertilizer down at seeding with no seed burn. Drill has great straw clearance. Full optical blockage monitors. New 5" Dutch Precision paired row double shoot openers with NH3 down the point. New Raven system set up for sectional control. TBH tank is sold but have new hitch for 6450. This drill is similar to a Concord but follows the ground better and has more trash clearance. Asking 68,000.
 

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wing back air drill

Ran a 60 foot tow between with tow behind nh3 wagon for two years could never get it to seed canola in hard clay hills very good either to deep or to shallow would seed cereals fine though the folding and unfolding was a pain in the butt with the tow between but yes you want to be straight when you start folding or unfolding and on firm ground was very happy when that drill left the yard and a Seed Hawk replaced it
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does the cart follow the tractor when making corners on the road? Have lots of narrow roads and field approaches. Just concerned about dragging the cart through the ditch. Get around just fine with 70ft heavy harrows but think if I had a cart behind them it would be in the ditch lots. Can you back these up when in field position?
 

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A 60’ the back wheels on the drill where they track a 3430 air cart the big wheel will fallow the drill wheel. Yes you can back up but be carful.
 

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Will they back as easy as a 5000 or does stuff start to bend?
Never bent anything backing up but in sand have had lots of tyres pushed off rims even at 60 psi, tubes solved that. Have had all the double gang presswheels break off for no reason, bent one walking beam back 90° because of a rock, going forward
 
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