[01Duramax6spd]

I need some guidance/openions on wrapping round bales to make silage bales. Looking at wrappers and wanting to know if it's a good idea?

 

[V876]

We have done it for a few years and it works well, it makes good feed. Works good any year but really shines when the weather isn't the best for drying. You have to be careful not to bale at too wet as you can have mold issues and bales freeze plus they get very heavy.
It is a bit labor intensive but not bad, you learn how much to cut at once so when its time to bale you can bale/haul and wrap it all in the same day.
Feed quality is good to excellent we have done alfalfa barley oats millet and some wheat. The only one of those I don't recommend is oats. the straw is too long and the cows waste lots, the rest they will clean up almost all. We unroll the bales in the field and they clean it up good almost better than in the feeders. I think the wrap cost is around $ 3/ bale depending how much wrap you put on, more is better than not enough. We use a Tubeoline wrapper fully automatic with a remote in case there is an issue you can start stop and steer it from the tractor.

 

[mark 1056]

we did it for years in the uk best bale wrapper on the market is mchale its an irish maker great stong machine
makes great feed

 

[01Duramax6spd]

So how long would we need to leave alfalfa and rye lay after cutting it? Is it going to feed out next winter like it went into the bale or is it going to spoil like silage? We have some wild oats we're wanting to get rid of in the process and hoping it'd spoil like it would in a pile.

 

[flatfoot]

If using standard baler you may what to watch for build-up of material on rollers. I believe there is scrapers available for some balers (from silage specials)

 

[V876]

So how long would we need to leave alfalfa and rye lay after cutting it? Is it going to feed out next winter like it went into the bale or is it going to spoil like silage? We have some wild oats we're wanting to get rid of in the process and hoping it'd spoil like it would in a pile.

Yes it comes out almost the same way it went in. barley even has a sweet whiskey smell when it comes out not the pig s*** smell it get in a pit.
As for how long to wait for baling depends on a few things, how heavy a stand, how lush it is when you cut and what kind of days you have, hot/dry or cooler. Lets say you cut at 60% moisture in decent weather say 70/75 degrees it might take a day or two to wilt down to 35-40% where you want to be wrapping at better not to wrap at too high a moisture barley is more forgiving at higher moisture levels. Again it depends on a lot of factors, haybine or swather makes a difference too.
You shouldn't have any troubles baling with any hard core baler I have used JD and New Holland Just remember to make a smaller bale say maybe 40-48 in and keep your bale tension high tighter bales are better, less air less mold.

 

[01Duramax6spd]

So baling it with with a 567 Deere baler should be fine? We're concerned about wrapping stuff on the rollers and fire???

 

[V876]

That baler should work good. You will get a little build up on the rollers but usually nothing serious. We have used 530 JD 566JD and 664NH all with no problems. Never worried about wet straw catching fire. Just check the rollers once and awhile for build up.
The biggest issue I have had with build up and wrapping on rollers is baling at too high a moisture level.

 

[MilkincowsDrivintractors]

You might also have to make your bales a little smaller when doing balage depending on your baler. With mine i have to make my bales 4x4 instead of 4x5 due to the increased weight.

 

[Big Cob]

We shoot for 25 to 35% moisture .
Depending on weather , maturity of alfalfa and thickness of windrow we typically cut in AM . bale next AM or Afternoon .
We have a guy come in with a Tubeline wrapper and it seems to work good on our 5 x 5 bales @ 2,500 lbs.
If rollers start building up on baler , clean them good , then talc the heck out of them .

 

[01Duramax6spd]

We're looking a new Anderson Hybrid X right now. Sounds like a good machine and will wrap up to 100hr.

 

[01Duramax6spd]

Well for an update we bought a Anderson Hybrid-X and it works great so far. On the flip side our 567 JD baler isn't fond of baling high moisture hay and I need some options on that. Do we add a high moisture kit or buy a silage special 568/569?? I'm also looking at options to what rakes will rake high moisture hay best. My N/H 216 I purchased last year doesn't .

 

[Ben Heide]

Have an Anderson wrapper also, works great. We have done barley (35-45% moisture), oats and hay silages. We also tubed some damp hay at 20-25% moisture one year because it kept raining every 3 days and would not get any drier. Came out just like it went in. We used a 535 for a few years, a 567 one yr (burnt baling straw that fall) and now have a 568 silage special with net wrap. I believe they all have the same bearings, but the silage special seems to prevent the stringy stuff from wrapping bad enough to get into the seals. The net wrap gives 2x advantage because it allows you to make bales faster (have been as quick as 50 seconds a bale average on the ground in a good barley swath, or 30 bales made in 25 minutes) but it also makes for neater bales which translates into less wrapping problems as they have fewer tails sticking out. I have started carrying a digital infrared heat guage(pistol type) to check for hot bearings every couple hours. I have saved a couple wrecks this way.

 

[01Duramax6spd]

They say we can wrap at 45-60%. Is that too high? We're wrapping rye right now and going to wrap some alfalfa then grass hay.

I'll have to see if we can find a silage special I guess. We've been wrapping everything with net this year and it's a huge time saver. I wish dad would have let us do it several years ago.

Have an Anderson wrapper also, works great. We have done barley (35-45% moisture), oats and hay silages. We also tubed some damp hay at 20-25% moisture one year because it kept raining every 3 days and would not get any drier. Came out just like it went in. We used a 535 for a few years, a 567 one yr (burnt baling straw that fall) and now have a 568 silage special with net wrap. I believe they all have the same bearings, but the silage special seems to prevent the stringy stuff from wrapping bad enough to get into the seals. The net wrap gives 2x advantage because it allows you to make bales faster (have been as quick as 50 seconds a bale average on the ground in a good barley swath, or 30 bales made in 25 minutes) but it also makes for neater bales which translates into less wrapping problems as they have fewer tails sticking out. I have started carrying a digital infrared heat guage(pistol type) to check for hot bearings every couple hours. I have saved a couple wrecks this way.

 

[V876]

They say we can wrap at 45-60%. Is that too high? We're wrapping rye right now and going to wrap some alfalfa then grass hay.

I'll have to see if we can find a silage special I guess. We've been wrapping everything with net this year and it's a huge time saver. I wish dad would have let us do it several years ago.

60% is way too high especially for Alfalfa you will get mold and you`ll have some really heavy bales. 35-45% optimum for most everything.
Never used net wrap but have heard good and bad from others, faster bailing for sure but it can be a ***** if it freezes on.
Did they tell you how to test your moisture. Do not use a bale probe and think your getting an accurate reading, you have to dry it down.

 

[01Duramax6spd]

OK. No I have no idea how to properly test moisture. Dad just ordered a special tester that goes to 70% .

60% is way too high especially for Alfalfa you will get mold and you`ll have some really heavy bales. 35-45% optimum for most everything.
Never used net wrap but have heard good and bad from others, faster bailing for sure but it can be a ***** if it freezes on.
Did they tell you how to test your moisture. Do not use a bale probe and think your getting an accurate reading, you have to dry it down.

 

[Ben Heide]

OK. No I have no idea how to properly test moisture. Dad just ordered a special tester that goes to 70% .

I have one of those 70% testers too, I rarely use it now however, just go by feel. If barley seeds and leaves are sticking to everything (belts and rollers) then it's too damp. I like it when we cut the barley with some green in the stems and/or the seeds are still doughy. Then allow it to 'rest' until it bales nicely, seems like a lot of awns fall off then after its sat a bit. My like under 50% preferably, and have made some barley silage in the upper 20's last year, just fed it first in the winter when the animals would eat anything other than browned off grass. Make some damp stuff and some drier stuff and you'll know which way to make it all next year should you have a choice. Cattle prefer the moister stuff, but it's too heavy IMO. You'll get a feel for it pretty quick.
I run 90% of all my feed through a Bale King 5500 with chop knives, so I'm not worried about net wrap freezing on.

 

[tbone95]

I run 90% of all my feed through a Bale King 5500 with chop knives, so I'm not worried about net wrap freezing on.

By that, I take it you feed net and all?

 

[CRToney]

Do you guys use inoculant at all?

 

[Lowmark]

We are about to wrap some peas, anyone ever done them? Only 20 ac so won't be huge wreck if it doesn't work.