Using a white or light colored tin helps. Do not follow the current trend with guys building black and gray sheds. We built a shed years ago and due to money restraints we just used whatever tin we could find cheap. We had dark brown and light tan on the roof. The screws were turning out in the brown tin and were good in the tan colored stuff

 

If a hidden fastener system is used on a building that big, I think it would cost way more than $10-13000 more, if it is done correct.

We have 22’ high walls on 2 storage sheds 80’x140’ and 80’x200’. Both pole buildings, havent seen any major shifting.

 

Is the plan to use 2x4 strapping on top of the trusses? Using plywood instead would brace that roof better, stop it from flexing.

 

That’s interesting you found steel to be more, I have been pricing buildings 80-100’ wide and steel is looking cheaper. Up to approx 60’ trusses the pole shed is the way to go for sure though. But differs by area I realize.

Now I am worried about my blacks roofs... never thought of that, makes sense.

 

My 80’ wide pole buildings were quite a bit cheaper than steel. But, grade beam and steel is quite a different building.

 

Cold storage prices within the last week:
80x200 pole $217k
80x200 steel $153k (requires additional piling cost, probably $6000)

 

What kind of steel building ? Where are you from ?

 

For a heated shop I think a wood stick frame building is easier to insulate than a steel one. As far as the 20 ft walls shifting it all depends on what you are putting them on. Are you using a footing, grade beam, or thickened slab floor. A footing or grade beam with piles deeper than 8 feet would provide a rigid beam to build on. If you pour the grade beam higher so it forms the bottom part of the wall it will decrease the length of vertical lumber for the walls. It can be difficult to find straight lumber longer than 16 feet. A lot of the 16ft lumber is junk as well. A taller grade beam is a lot stronger to if you run into it with equipment or machinery than a wood framed wall. As far as the roof if you can sheet the roof with 5/8 plywood it will be a lot better than strapping for future leaks. A lot of the colonys have roofs done this way for 30 years with no leaks. Strapping is the cheaper way but is more prone to problems. If possible I would order the roof in a light color like white in 26 gauge.

 

The wood ones are spec'd to have 6' of treated lumber in the ground. There is an option to drill down 8' and put 2' of concrete in the bottom of each hole, would give a lot more support for weight. I will have to look into the plywood on the roof. One builder also puts galvalume or galvanized on the roof, and then your colored tin on the sides.

 

I know a poster on this site built a fairly large pole building and I believe they sheeted the entire building, would defiantly add major strength. If a shop, than foam board it, tin it and the inside would be easy to insulate.

 

Thorpy are you building cold storage or a heated shop? I have no experience with pole buildings and am not sure I am a big fan of them. If I was going wood I would sooner stick frame it on a grade beam or mount the poles above the ground on piles. That way you never worry that the wood in the ground will rot. When you build a heated shop I would build it to last 50 years. After 25 years with a pole building I would be concerned about how much of the pole has rotted in the ground. Once the poles rot how do you repair that?

 

This is going to be a heated shop. What do you mean by pole building vs stick frame? In my mind they are the same thing..... Or do you mean a stick frame is a building that uses grade beam?

 

And a plastic (or canvas?) arched Quonset was more expensive than both the pole shed and the steel building, that just blew me away. Why spend more on a building with a finite lifespan is beyond me.

 

Stick frame is a stud building, built out of 2x6’ or the like. Would have to be built on a grade beam or floating slab

 

My brothers are in the process of building a 80x120 machine shed/heated shop and the contractor suggested to put two panels on each side as the expansion would then be halved per sheet .

 

I heard the opposite was better... The one builder I am dealing with said that when they couldn't get 40' sheets and had the 3' overlapped sheets they had major problems with moisture getting between the sheets and leaking into the interior.

Thank you for the help guys!

 

Where the sheets overlap they will rust over time. One continuous sheet is better for leaks. You need to make sure what the sheets are screwed into is strong or thick enough to hold the screws and keep the screws from pulling out.

 

Rain goes up a roof with air currents. You have to tar the overlap, and fiber tape. That will not rust or leak. That was from years ago. Probably a "tape" you can use

 

I can't see overlapping them making it rust, both sides of each sheet are overlapped and they don't rust.

 

Tin bins are overlapped

 

Grain bins have tremendous roof slope with very short spans. Our cold storage roof has some overlaped sheets. Where the overlap is there is some rust at the overlap area and that is with a galvanized non painted roof. Where the sheets overlap it stays wetter longer which is why maybe the rust started on ours.

 

Really like the look of steel, but it is going to be minimum 150% of the price of a wood building.

Thanks.

We are currently quoting out a new workshop with attached cold storage (160'x70' total, 100' is workshop, and a small 60' of cold storage), and I have found that a steel building is only going to cost about 7% more than a wood building (all in, including all concrete, slabs, insulation, interior tin liner, man doors, overhead doors, finished office space). Every structure is different of course, and this is a fairly complicated build with lots of overhead doors (20' tall), man doors (8 or so), interior office space with a small basement for water system etc.

I had many overpriced steel building quotes, but I stumbled upon Prairie Steel (based near Saskatoon) ( https://prairiesteel.com/ ) and they have given me a quote on the building package that was very affordable. Give them a call, I think Brian deals with farm buildings the most, and see if their building quote is any better.

We will be hiring a local crew to help assemble it, but it looks pretty easy to assemble if you have the time. All connections except the tin are pre-drilled so you just slip bolts in holes and tighten everything up. We visited a finished building in our area that Prairie Steel did and it looked pretty good to us.

Cheers,
Eric