Sounds like quite a process. I never realized how much you have to do to one to pick corn.

The brand I run requires :
Putting the feeder house drive in slow range
Shifting the rotor gear box to slow range
Putting the feederhouse down stop in the corn position
Put chopper in slow range.....and drive.

 

You do this ONCE...when you buy it...after that it takes 5 minutes to change from crop to crop.

How long does it take you to go from corn to wheat?
It takes us less than 15 minutes.

I have seen lots of tips on every other brand to get perfection out of a machine...did not know one existed where this was not the case.

What brand is this?
Please educate us.
So there is nothing you would do to your machine combining 30% corn?
Out of the box is optimal?
No parts to change or add?

 

Ground Feed HELP!

We finally got corn from going out the back end of our S670 after buying the C&M Welding replacement concaves and disrupter lugs. Wow rotor loss dropped off completely. Now we need to clean up our sample! We already took off half of the feed acc. paddles, maybe if we took all of them off?? Heard about the slow down kit but $1700 I don't think so. We slowed the rotor all the way down to 240 rpm, can you run it too slow? Is the corn bunching up between the accelerator and the rotor causing the cracked grain?

Any more advise would help.

 

We finally got corn from going out the back end of our S670 after buying the C&M Welding replacement concaves and disrupter lugs. Wow rotor loss dropped off completely. Now we need to clean up our sample! We already took off half of the feed acc. paddles, maybe if we took all of them off?? Heard about the slow down kit but $1700 I don't think so. We slowed the rotor all the way down to 240 rpm, can you run it too slow? Is the corn bunching up between the accelerator and the rotor causing the cracked grain?

Any more advise would help.

You need to install the swept back paddles so the corn is not hitting a square edge when it enters the FA.

Also...cheap and easy...slow down the feeder house to a crawl. It does not need to go fast at all in corn.

Just talked to a guy wit a 9770 that installed the sprocket that I mentioned in the first post and he noticed a big difference in fines.

You are not getting any damage in the rotor...or very little.

 

Will this work on a S670? Ground speed 5.0+ 608C corn head with a back shaft speed of 700. 180-225bushel @ 16.5-22 percent moisture.

 

How are guys making out with quality this year with the lower test weight?

 

I am going to try these tips... I just purchased a s680 two weeks ago... Bad sample and high rotor loss.... Thanks for info...

 

Let us know how you make out.

These tips also work for the new S series as well...as they are mechanically very similar.

 

BUY the RPR system from C&M welding u won't look back run a red and green the rpr system made the deere a combine not a re seeder. Also the slow down kit from deere for the accelerater or grain smasher some call it

 

Most...if not all the machines sold here come with the optional edible bean FA that runs at 320 rpm as opposed to the standard 440 rpm (or something close to that) so when swept back paddles are installed there it handles the crop with kid gloves.

 

Kinzeman what are you smoking, crack corn pipe? I've been getting tired of reading this bs on a few different forums I read. It is impossible to set up a new Deere combine out of the factory to do a high quality job in high moisture corn. The Deere engineers can't even do it!!! The amount of grain damage is not acceptable as a farmer/elevator owner. Sorry if I offended anyone with this but it is the stone cold truth. The fines coming out of the machines are not the problem it's all the damaged kernels. Have you ever done a cracked/damaged kernal count?

 

Have you ran an STS with these small changes?

I have has several calls from people who have done these simple changes and thanked me because it made such a difference.

But...yea...I guess you know best...please keep up the great work!!!!

A name of corngrinder with one post...hmmmm

Oh...just because it ticks you off...I am going to keep posting this everywhere.

Where do you live...maybe I will take out a billboard just for you.

Idiot...

So corngrinder...what do you have for a combine?

 

Have you ran an STS with these small changes?

I have has several calls from people who have done these simple changes and thanked me because it made such a difference.

But...yea...I guess you know best...please keep up the great work!!!!

A name of corngrinder with one post...hmmmm

Oh...just because it ticks you off...I am going to keep posting this everywhere.

Where do you live...maybe I will take out a billboard just for you.

Well said KINZEPOWER!!! I too have had customers say how satisfied they are with the improvment.

Idiot...

So corngrinder...what do you have for a combine?

Well said KINZEPOWER!!! I too have had customers say how satisfied they are with the improvment.

 

I am the first to admit that these things 'out of the box' have room to improve...but don't come here and say they CAN'T be improved...they can...AND DO...put out quality with anything on the market.

 

Why should a person have to make a changes to a $450000 combine? What crop can a sts combine without buying aftermarket parts to make it work well? My sts sucked in corn wheat canola and edible beans, a new combine should not be fighting rotor loss in corn and wheat especially!

 

I agree set up set up set up.how can any manufacturer build a combine that will work in all conditions. I know in eastern Ontario none of the suggested settings have been right on. We always close the concave a little more. Another problem is the operator wants to switch between crops in 1 minute. Even taking the head off is a pain in the --- . Let alone having to move belts and lift the drum. I will often give suggestions to improve a sample or check for losses and the response is "do I really have to do that " so most of the time I don't feel sorry about the results.

 

I guess I must just make it all up, I'd love to have a deere combine always have had one, I'm the guy that has old Johnny poppers and 4020's and old combines and all kinds of neat old jd stuff, so I'd say I'm a "John deere" guy, I guess I must have made it all up to consider switching colors after running green combines since 1966.