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Bent PTO shaft on JD 4955 (resolved----I hope!)

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8.1K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  ccjersey  
#1 · (Edited)
Anyone know what it takes to change the pto shaft on a JD 4955? Powershift transmission with MFWD.

We have one that's bent so badly the oil leaks right out and we can't even run it without using the PTO. We were pulling a heavy disk and somehow the clevis bolted to the top of the drawbar broke off and disk tongue popped up (and forward????) and smacked the pto shaft.

Anyway we're wondering if we have to split the tractor to replace this shaft. So far we've put a bar behind the plate that holds the shaft in and cannot budge it. The bearing carrier there at the back is also cracked, but that comes out the back.
 
#2 ·
Guess there is a first time for everything..., the rear bearing quill and shaft come out as one piece, I'm guessing you couldn't get it out when you tried because of pressure from the bent shaft. I believe the quill has a long shoulder that fits into the final drive housing and that's what is binding. Perhaps a come-a-long and some common sense would get the shaft out.

My concern would be, if the shaft got stroked hard enough to bend as you say, I'd be worried about internal structural damage at the other end of the shaft where the front bearing is installed.

You are going to need to reset the preload on the bearings when you reinstall the new pieces, if you have to replace the front bearing, well then you will have to replace the outer race and that will require surgery to do that, in other words, the whole back end has to come apart. The bearings need to be heated to install on the shaft and other technical tidbits are involved in the re installation, get hold of the tech info or get someone to do it that knows.
 
#3 ·
I just got a call, they got it out with another bar behind the quill. :D

We'll see what we can do with it in the press and then maybe send to shop and have them put it in the lathe to tune it up.


Too wet to run right now anyway, so we have a day or two. If it gets dry before we get it back, we'll probably just plate the hole off and run it without a shaft if that's possible. Looks like the clutch pack is self contained and won't go anywhere without the shaft in it.
 
#5 ·
Anyone know of some sources of used parts?

Local yard we use cannot find a used shaft, but can source a new aftermarket. I'm a little cautious about this since we use the pto on this one pretty hard when we agitate lagoons. Would rather get the whole quill/bearings/shaft assembly anyway.

I am betting most of these tractors seldom have anything run on their PTO, so there should be some good ones out there.
 
#9 ·
If you haven't already I would be lifting off the top off the final drive case...I would be much more concerned with what the front bearing retainer and housing look like than the clutch pack which is further ahead, that is what took the brunt of the force when your f'up happened and kept the shaft from being driven forward into the transmission case. The clutch pack is self supported in the transmission housing.
 
#10 ·
Quill was cracked, one bearing cup was imprinted with marks from the rollers, retainer which compresses the shim pack and bearings was bent before bolts broke. Looking up in the housing from the back, everything looks fine. I think the bearings forward of the two in the quill at the back are all cylindrical roller bearings, so no problem with the shaft moving forward a bit. Just don't know how much leeway there is in the splines in the clutch pack.

Looking at the parts diagram, I see a bunch of spring washers listed there to separate the clutch discs when the clutch pack is disengaged, so I know there is some slack there between the disks, but the shaft splines up in a drive hub which is splined into the center of the driven disks, not sure how much thrust that can take before it damages something in front of it.

We'll install the replacement shaft, fill it with oil and give it a try unless removing the transmission control valve and pump off the left side would give us a view of the cutch pack and it's shaft/bearings/supports. Sure would hate to run it and ruin a whole lot more stuff as a result.

I'm still having trouble understanding this thing. There is one small ding on one spline on the rear end of the shaft. The clevis bolts are broken, but how does a towed implement which is in the ground go forward when the hitch comes loose? I wonder if the guy driving it backed back up to the disk after it came loose and just rammed into the tongue:eek:

A pretty reliable guy, not an idiot or "hot dog". I guess he would be being pretty quiet if he trashed "his" tractor if his foot slipped off the clutch or something like that. I know he keeps a big water cooler in the tractor, perhaps he got tangled up with that?