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Rotor fires!

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#1 ·
What to do about my rotor fire problems? 06 9860
Material builds behind the rotor, rubs on the rear wall and starts fires. In dry conditions this happens everyday. I am getting no action from the dealers.
This is a known problem but I am just getting ignored. Oh they'll sell me a new rotor. Am I wrong thinking this is a design flaw that I shouldn't have to pay 100% to fix this
 
#2 ·
Hey I Am not sure if you heard this from your dealer or not but. I do remember this being quite a common problem and deere actually had a pretty crude fix for this that did seem to work. If I remember right it involved using a bondo type material to prevent wrapping material on the back end of the rotor. I have never done it but have been present while other mechanics were preforming the task. I was pretty sure this was the solution that Deere was suggesting you will have to look into it if you are interested as I am very vague on details. I am sure someone on here will be able to give you further insight. If not get the dealer to do a D tach case if they have not already.
 
#5 ·
I have had a look a a couple of rotors that had the bondo treatment. Bondo melts when it burns! they ended up changing the rotors out.
I have tried the discharge paddles and installed a pf beater and speed up kit. Still a fire starter.
Looks like I have three options
1. pay for a new rotor
2. trade it off
3. let it burn

1. Will the new rotor cure the problem? Really ticks me off giving them more money
2. Won't do to well on trade with all the burn marks on it!!
3. It's going to happen one day, gonna get one that I can't put out. Wonder what else will go with it, liability!

Thing that gets me is there is a design problem and NO ONE CARES. Dealers, deere included.
So I am on my own and looking for advice.
Biggest problem for the next year or two is cash flow, half the farm was/still to wet to seed. so that eliminates the more spendy solutions, attractive as they are.
 
#7 ·
Make sure you keep your insurance upto date, I'd probably get ticked off enough to let it burn and buy something else. The insurance guys are getting kind of sick of paying out on the machines, maybe they will twist deeres arm enough to get a real solution.
 
#8 ·
Really?
While I guess your right, but do you want the names of the 15 firefighters from the Three Hills fire department on August 30, 2006?
Without them you would be wrong.
Not to mention the field fire they subsequently put out.
Owner negligence eh?
What section in the manual refers to unwrapping pea vines on the back of the rotor?
Must be only in your manual 5stateag?
Rats farmerjones, I guess you should only use an STS in wheat?
Are you naysayers catching on yet?

Don
 
#9 ·
Just trade it off for red or yellow New Holland. Should be used ones around that won't cost you more than the hassle of waiting for it to burn down and dealing with that.

You are not neglecting it as you know what the problem is and are trying to fix it. But, sometimes all machines are not perect for all conditions. Sounds like your STS is not pefect for your conditions. Get rid of it.
 
#10 ·
I need the cheapest fix possible, see bottom of my second post. As much as I'd love to, trading it and headers just isn't doable right now. tractor8100, dealers like that don't exist around here. Your lucky.
To the two in denial, that's insulting. If you truly knew as much as you think you would know that this is a real problem. You think deere came up with the bondo joke if it was not
 
#13 ·
I have been a deere tech for over 10 years. I have yet to see a harvesters combine burn.

Combine fires are 99 percent owner neglect. Thats why john deere doesnt do anything. Not there problem. They have a department within a department within a department, that monitors these things. They spend millions a year on pips for all the models. IF there is a design flaw they fix em. I spend half my day every day dealing with superseed part numbers because deere changes things to the better.
 
#14 ·
There was a 9770 burn up about 5 miles from me last fall. The inusrance guy was able guess the make and model as soon as he heard combine fire...must have been luck because according to the experts on here there isn't a problem. The adjuster said it started at the rear of the rotor like windchill is having. I've also heard of static build up on the plastic side panels being an issue for all of the new machines that use them, and that draging a chain helps alot. Farmerjones as to your snide remarks about keeping the machine clean and they never burn in wheat, we never blow our combines off until its time to pack them away in wheat and we never have a smolder. But then again there aren't areas that chaff really collects on a 2388.
 
#18 ·
You are just asking for it because I've seen that static discharge happen on 2388s too. Back in 2003 when it was really hot, it got to the point were some of my neighbors had tractors with discs in the field with someone sitting in them to run around and put out fires.
 
#20 ·
We've burned up a 1480, but it was due to a fuel filter leak. As far as asking for it because I don't blow my machines off, they honestly don't collect chaff up around the engine, the feeder house area is the only significant amout of residue.
 
#21 ·
LOL, that's like telling a drowning man just to hold his head up.

I know your trying to help so

OK, for those that misunderstand I see that I should be more clear. There is no problem with chaff/straw collection as far as being out of the ordinary. The engine compartment is VERY clean due to the excellent factory air direction.

I have a backpack blower that I use everyday under ordinary circumstances. In the very bad crops and hot days I blow it off as much as every 2 hoppers (yes really!) depending on the need. That is also understandable as pea and lentil dust on a windy hot day d**n near is self combustible.

The big problem is chaff and straw bits getting in behind the rotor, building up and starting on fire from rubbing on the housing wall or discharge housing or whatever you want to call it.
You cannot blow this off, you can't even see it. I have had it built up in there bad enough that the rotor does not freewheel when given a push by hand. With help it takes me a couple hours at least to get that completely cleaned out.
I am not the only one as I have walked into a couple dealers scrap piles and looked at the rear of some rotors.

I really don't want to have to prove and defend myself to every one that my combine is a fire bug and that I'm not a few bricks short of a load maintenance wise.
All I was looking for was some "been there done that" guys and what they did to remedy it. some advice related to the specific problem. The topic started off pretty good

For the green blood guys, I am not bashing on the combine. I really like it other than the fires. That's a big issue though!
It fits my needs and does well for me.

However when the dealers and deere completely ignore my problem it has got me to the point that I would love to send them a picture of my new "not green" combine telling them "never mind I fixed the problem."
While that would be satisfying and maybe the best option i realize that they could care less. Only thing hurt would be my wallet. So I'm out to protect my wallet and drive a green and black combine for now.

If you've read this far sorry for the novel
 
#22 ·
Hey Do not worry too much about what some people have to say it gets pretty frustrating. These forums are quite useful but you do have to weed through some posts some time. It seems like some people are invincible super heroes, but karma does eventually catch up to those people. It is just like when you are talking to those cocky drivers that are by far the best on the road everyone else is morons to them but I think it says something about the intelligence level of the person and they will find out some day accidents happen to even superstars like themselves.

As far as your problem goes you are far from the only person having it. It seems very common on certain machines. What makes those certain machines different from the next is a mystery. I would really like to know what happens in your case. I took the cover off one of my machines yesterday to try and see for myself how the problem occurs and have been thinking ever since. Is there a possibility that there are differences in how far the rotor on individual machines are located in comparison to the rear wall? If you wish measure the distance of yours and I can do mine on Monday. Take it from the very outer edge of the Flange on the rear of the rotor, to the wall. I hope I am explaining this measurement so you understand me but if not ask for clarification and I will try again.
 
#23 ·
LOL, that's like telling a drowning man just to hold his head up.

I know your trying to help so

OK, for those that misunderstand I see that I should be more clear. There is no problem with chaff/straw collection as far as being out of the ordinary. The engine compartment is VERY clean due to the excellent factory air direction.

I have a backpack blower that I use everyday under ordinary circumstances. In the very bad crops and hot days I blow it off as much as every 2 hoppers (yes really!) depending on the need. That is also understandable as pea and lentil dust on a windy hot day d**n near is self combustible.

The big problem is chaff and straw bits getting in behind the rotor, building up and starting on fire from rubbing on the housing wall or discharge housing or whatever you want to call it.
You cannot blow this off, you can't even see it. I have had it built up in there bad enough that the rotor does not freewheel when given a push by hand. With help it takes me a couple hours at least to get that completely cleaned out.
I am not the only one as I have walked into a couple dealers scrap piles and looked at the rear of some rotors.

I really don't want to have to prove and defend myself to every one that my combine is a fire bug and that I'm not a few bricks short of a load maintenance wise.
All I was looking for was some "been there done that" guys and what they did to remedy it. some advice related to the specific problem. The topic started off pretty good

For the green blood guys, I am not bashing on the combine. I really like it other than the fires. That's a big issue though!
It fits my needs and does well for me.

However when the dealers and deere completely ignore my problem it has got me to the point that I would love to send them a picture of my new "not green" combine telling them "never mind I fixed the problem."
While that would be satisfying and maybe the best option i realize that they could care less. Only thing hurt would be my wallet. So I'm out to protect my wallet and drive a green and black combine for now.

If you've read this far sorry for the novel


If its a huge known problem, how come our combines or the ones in my neighborhood haven't burned up from straw wrapping around the rotor. I assumed everybody blew their combines off but after reading someone not blowing their 2388s off in this thread I had to ask. There has been 2 50 series that burned up around here but those fires were caused by static electricity up on top of the fuel tank near the battery and computer box. Noticed JD moved those 2 things down by the right rear tire so if they ever did spark it wouldn't start the fuel on fire.
 
#24 ·
not sure what is wrong with your dealer their i work for one in arkansas and i had a customer with the sam problem in soybeans only and you could walk behind him at night and watch the smoldering crop come out we talked with or deere rep and i took rotor out and put the bondo in and deere payed for it and it hadnt started on fire again yet. it didnt make sense to us either thier fix but we will see how long it last back their.
 
#25 ·
I havent heard of or had first hand experience with rotor fires. I work for deere, and around here we farm dryland hillside wheat. Not a lot of wrapping happening. I have pulled apart some rotors during overhauls and seen some buildup behind the rotor, more specifically around the output shaft of the rotor gearbox. i have heard of the "bondo" trick and heard mixed results. Personally i wouldnt do it due to the fact of rotor imbalance, especially if a chunk of that stuff falls out. If it was mine, i would make sure that the 3 strips of metal (looks like 3/8" keystock) is smooth and does not have sharp ends(crop will grab and begin to wrap). Also make sure that you do not have too much of a gap between your rear bulkhead and the rear of the rotor body. Thats my $.02, hope it helps

himarker
 
#26 ·
Hi guys Im new here but last year we had a lot of fires when harvesting lentils. We were having trouble with fires starting on the front of the motor in a 9760. I ended up mounting a camera and watching chaff build up on a ledge under the exhaust manifold touch it then start blowing off. It would start fires on the gearcase, step by the toolbox or any spot that held chaff on the front of the motor.
I would go down wind and have no problems but as soon as i went into the wind the chaff would suck up the right hand side and come threw the radiator and build up, i could see it on the monitor every time.
We had the 9760 for 5 years and had fire problems the last 2, which was also when we got an portable air compressor and started blowing it down everyday.
The local deere dealer also pulled out 2 or 3 rotors out of 60s an 70s because fires were starting in there as well. I think there was a ledge in the back which they filled in to make it either flat slightly sloping so nothing built up in there which did the job.
Was a shocking couple of weeks to get lentils off , bout 2 weeks straight 37c so most people were going at night and first thing in the morning. There were fires on J deeres starting in discharge beaters, under the floor above fuel tanks, on the choppers steps, motors, and rotors. Some people i heard were blowing then off every run up and back.
I was bout every hour depending on the view threw the camera an how much was on the motor.
Fires were touching the red ones too with one 8120 burning down.
But when we were back on wheat or barley no one had any problems at all.

So I reckon sometimes no matter how careful you are in the right (or wrong)conditions every color can burn

Cheers Simmo