Here's the pictures

 

They look pretty worn to me. Too much more wear and you'll have a hard time unbolting them.

I don't see any spikes or hooks on those rasp bar segments...

 

Yeah on some of them the bolt head has almost no meat left on the one side

I didn't get a picture of those ill get a picture of the rear in a bit and show you

 

Here's the others

 

yah maybe its time to replace them, they look similar to about where mine were worn last winter and we had the rotor rebuilt front to back.

 

Yep, those are very worn... Might be standard duty bars too? Those do wear fast...


When I replaced the bars on my specialty rotor I used K506 bars that the dealer carried, they had them listed the same price as an OEM bar.
I can run the rotor slower in corn and soybeans and do a much better job than before, despite being larger they take a lot less power. Could be your very worn bars are making it hard to move crop through the rotor cage.
(The bars I mentioned are on the top of the page in the link below.)
https://www.kilemfg.com/thresh-straight-separator-bars/
Not sure about vane settings on newer machines but our older 1460 needs them to be in slow position for corn, I just leave them alone might take more power in beans but between the new bars and aftermarket concave still takes a heck of a lot less than when I first got the machine.
A kicker bar looks a bit like a thick section of auger flighting, the picture below is of a view of one from the rear of the rotor.


You can install straight separator bars in the rear section of a specialty or AFX rotor, but mine uses spiked bars instead since it has a disruptor kit installed in the grates.

 

Forgot to post the kicker picture, but yeah that looks like one on yours.

 

When you say rebuilt the rotor did you pull it out and do the bearings and have it re balanced or just put everything new on it? Thinking I better check the elephant ears and see how they are worn. This machine has 900+- hours on the separator
Would you recommend changing all the bars? The ones that are 1/3 or so toward the rear are all in really good shape especially the spiked bars and the kicker bars.


Also if I'm adding straight bars do I put them in where the two line up? Cause right now that's where the spiked bars are positioned so if I put 4 straight bars where those are then put the 8 spiked bars any where around the straight bars or do you move them more forward?

 

When I put the new bars in mine I just did the concave area, not the grates. The bars further back in mine weren't as worn as the front but I want to change them eventually.

 

That sounds good so just change the ones that the bolt has wear showing?

What's the best set up? All rasp bars and 4 straight bars? Or keep the 8 spiked ones on there and 4 straight bars and the rest regular rasp bars?

Also where do you position the spiked bars and straight bars? Keep them all toward the back in grate area I'd assume right?

 

That sounds good so just change the ones that the bolt has wear showing?

What's the best set up? All rasp bars and 4 straight bars? Or keep the 8 spiked ones on there and 4 straight bars and the rest regular rasp bars?

Also where do you position the spiked bars and straight bars? Keep them all toward the back in grate area I'd assume right?

I'd say so, assuming those are the ones in the main threshing area of the rotor. (Front half, bit more of a distinction on a legacy machine with the concave sections and grate sections being separate areas of the rotor.) When I first changed bars I only did 4 rows, but I think I now have 8(?) with all the same bars, it worked with only the first 4 changed but not as well as when the rest were done. (Could be more rows, not sure, haven't looked in and counted recently.)


Not sure on that one, as I haven't ran straight bars on our rotor, perhaps someone else could answer that better.


All our spiked bars are in the grate area, not sure if in that machine the grate modules can be adjusted like a concave but my older (1460) the grates do not move, so clearance isn't an issue.

 

yes you are correct on the position of the spiked bars and straight bars. I have all new parts on my rotor including the elephant ears, and rasp bars spiked tooth bars and straight bars.