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Thanks Brian,

Those keys work.

I have enabled the IMP Switch under Settings | Vehicle | Work Switch. That seems to 'work'. It toggles the btnSectionOffAutoOn on and off but painting does not occur - I have to press the manual button (btnManualOffOn) which starts painting but turns off btnSectionOffAutoOn.

The physical switch for AutoSteer does not toggle btnAutoSteer.
Have done some more testing - the more I play with AgOpenGPS the more I like it. Still working on my tractors hydraulics for steering - have two hydraulic valves and can get both to work if I bypass the steering orbital but when its in the loop the valves stop - I think it because even though its a 5 port orbital its not a closed center load sense but an open center with the 5th line (load sense?) going to a priority valve. Because of the open center I think the fluid is just going through the orbital rather than moving the ram (fluid will take the path of least resistance). Have some more ideas and will keep playing with it and post the outcome when I get there.

Any way back to my quoted post above.

Turns out painting works with my work switch. Not sure if it because I have downloaded a new version or not but with my AutoSteer PCB connected when I activate the workswitch btnSectionOffAutoOn 'lights up' and painting begins - awesome.

I also wanted the steer switch form the PCB to 'light up' the AutoSteer button. I have just spent the last hour or so duplicating CWorkSwitch to create CSteerSwitch and bingo - when I click the physical steer switch btnAutoSteer 'lights up'. When I click the physical switch again btnAutoSteer goes off. This now functions like the John Deere, TopCon and other systems I have used.
 
Good morning,
i would like to tell you my experience with AOG. I have mounted the system on my tractor, i use a 14,4v drill to drive the steering wheel, IBT2 for controller, WAS with ADS1115, BN0, MMa.
For GPS i use a m8t ublox with rtklib for rtk.
Yesterday i was trying to tune the system, counts per degree, proportional gain, look ahead, ecc..
i tell you i have never been able to drive the tractor in a usefull way: if i run at 2-3 kmh the system is quite stable, but never reached the center of the line, the lightbar tells to turn a bit more to one side (the left). I ran multiple time in an ellipse about 70m long, rtkplot shows that from pass to pass the distance between lines was about 10 cm. I am sure my gps is not enough precise for real rtk but i don't understand why AOG tells the system to turn more to one side and the result is that the tractor never cross the line.

The real problem shows up when i run at 6-7 kmh and more: the drill goes crazy left-right, left-right and the drive does not stabilize. I have seen on the down left corner that actual and set steereing position never match, indeed when i set what i think is the correct number of counts per degree, around 78, and try to turn all left and all right, the maximum value of actual number becomes very small, like +- 1.7, but the set value remains the same, for exemple +-30. It is impossible to reach that number with the counts per degree i use.

what do you think? The real problem is the gps? or Do i have to spend more time on trial-and-error to find the perfect tuning?

thank you
 
i tell you i have never been able to drive the tractor in a usefull way: if i run at 2-3 kmh the system is quite stable, but never reached the center of the line, the lightbar tells to turn a bit more to one side (the left). I ran multiple time in an ellipse about 70m long, rtkplot shows that from pass to pass the distance between lines was about 10 cm. I am sure my gps is not enough precise for real rtk but i don't understand why AOG tells the system to turn more to one side and the result is that the tractor never cross the line.
Hello,
I had the same problem initially with an offset of a few centimeters on one side.
the problem was solved by regulating the "Steer Angle Sensor Zero"

For brutal movements right/left it is necessary to lower the PID, to start with 10 for example in Proportional Gain then to rise progressively
 
Hello,
I had the same problem initially with an offset of a few centimeters on one side.
the problem was solved by regulating the "Steer Angle Sensor Zero"

For brutal movements right/left it is necessary to lower the PID, to start with 10 for example in Proportional Gain then to rise progressively
Thank you for your answer! i want to try to set it, because right now when point straight my sensor reads zero, i change only the value in the setup zone, right now is 5268.

I try and see what happens, maybe a little video could be usefull!
 
Discussion starter · #3,887 ·
Good morning,
i would like to tell you my experience with AOG. I have mounted the system on my tractor, i use a 14,4v drill to drive the steering wheel, IBT2 for controller, WAS with ADS1115, BN0, MMa.
For GPS i use a m8t ublox with rtklib for rtk.
Yesterday i was trying to tune the system, counts per degree, proportional gain, look ahead, ecc..
i tell you i have never been able to drive the tractor in a usefull way: if i run at 2-3 kmh the system is quite stable, but never reached the center of the line, the lightbar tells to turn a bit more to one side (the left). I ran multiple time in an ellipse about 70m long, rtkplot shows that from pass to pass the distance between lines was about 10 cm. I am sure my gps is not enough precise for real rtk but i don't understand why AOG tells the system to turn more to one side and the result is that the tractor never cross the line.

The real problem shows up when i run at 6-7 kmh and more: the drill goes crazy left-right, left-right and the drive does not stabilize. I have seen on the down left corner that actual and set steereing position never match, indeed when i set what i think is the correct number of counts per degree, around 78, and try to turn all left and all right, the maximum value of actual number becomes very small, like +- 1.7, but the set value remains the same, for exemple +-30. It is impossible to reach that number with the counts per degree i use.

what do you think? The real problem is the gps? or Do i have to spend more time on trial-and-error to find the perfect tuning?

thank you

First of all, turn off the MMA, and the BNO. Use just the GPS to get started.

Second. Looking at the actual angle, turn your steering wheel so the wheels are about 45 degrees left (measure it if you can), does it show -45 degrees? Then do right 45 degrees. Does it show +45 degrees?
Third. Drive on a flat piece of ground and set the steering wheel so the Actual in AOG shows 0 degrees. Are you going in a straight line? Adjust up or down until you do.



Post again when you have done this, or if you want to continue on your own, select StanLee steering, and in autosteer settings move the stanlee settings both to 1. Set the pid gain really low like 5 and 5. Set sidehill draft to 0. Set min pwm to 2, Max steer to 25, Integral gain to 0, max integral to 0, and try that.



Go to IMU GPS settings make sure that Distance back for heading calc is about 3 (longer is smoother)



Now go for a drive, nothing should be violent, it should be very lazy.



SLOWLY increase gain and min pwm values one at a time to learn there effects. Report back your progress. Drill motors are very unforgiving and draw a lot of power and are very hard to control.



I need to do a new settings video, but this one says a lot that still applies. Using only GPS.


 
Hi

Any members here who have used an Cetop Hydraulic proportional valve for steering? It’s like the same as an hydraforce but then for small
Type: HD3PS1PCR410

I notice its a 24 volt system.
That’s correct, i’ve also bought a 12->24v stepup converter. Price is very nice, so i thought let’s give it a try (about €250,-, complete with valve block)
 
Hi

Any members here who have used an Cetop Hydraulic proportional valve for steering? It’s like the same as an hydraforce but then for small
Type: HD3PS1PCR410
I have tested a similar valve - the DSG-3C2-N-01-D1-36. This is a 12v system.

It worked when I bypassed the steering orbital but as I have since discovered my orbital is an open centre and as liquid will take the path of least resistance it would not move the steering ram.
 
Discussion starter · #3,892 ·
Please download the latest Dev version from github if you downloaded the latest version yesterday. If the connected source didn't send corrections yet and a setting for correction was set, the AOG would spin.



Solution was include the 9999 check in roll and heading.



if ((ahrs.isRollFromBrick | ahrs.isRollFromAutoSteer | ahrs.isRollFromGPS | ahrs.isRollFromExtUDP) && ahrs.rollX16 != 9999)
 
Hi

Any members here who have used an Cetop Hydraulic proportional valve for steering? It’s like the same as an hydraforce but then for small
Type: HD3PS1PCR410
I have tested a similar valve - the DSG-3C2-N-01-D1-36. This is a 12v system.

It worked when I bypassed the steering orbital but as I have since discovered my orbital is an open centre and as liquid will take the path of least resistance it would not move the steering ram.
Okay, but with an Hydraforce SP10-47c Valve it’s the same right? It’s also for Closed Center Applications.. if you have an open center you should feed the valve not parallel at the orbitrol but thru an other pressure line from the tractor...
 
I just showed a hydraulic system with a HD3PS1PC10R2 12V on a claas with a charge sensing orbitrol.
I mounted 2 solenoid valves that cut the return to the steering wheel, the pressure is taken output dystributeur with a pressure limiter.
It works perfectly.


I enclose a video before the hydraulic assembly.
I am preparing a video with the hydraulic system may be next week.

We'll never thank Brian enough for his help.
Many thanks to you for your work.


 
I mounted 2 solenoid valves that cut the return to the steering wheel, the pressure is taken output dystributeur with a pressure limiter.
I'd be interested in more details about this part.
Me too
My tractor is a Massey ferguson 6160, the T-port from the tractor is going thru a 17bar valve for transmission purposes... so in My opinion My closed centre valve should work... i’ll hope
 
Me too
My tractor is a Massey ferguson 6160, the T-port from the tractor is going thru a 17bar valve for transmission purposes... so in My opinion My closed centre valve should work... i’ll hope
Indeed no particular problem for the closed center.
The problem comes with load detection ...
Soybean seedlings are not finished at home yet much work, but I would make a video and plan of my installation as soon as possible.
 
Me too
My tractor is a Massey ferguson 6160, the T-port from the tractor is going thru a 17bar valve for transmission purposes... so in My opinion My closed centre valve should work... i’ll hope
Indeed no particular problem for the closed center.
The problem comes with load detection ...
Soybean seedlings are not finished at home yet much work, but I would make a video and plan of my installation as soon as possible.
Open centre has no load detection, (tractor is open centre), My option was too tee the P and T port from orbitrol too valve, the 17bar valve reduction valve should be enough too keep enough pressure for steering. When manual steering, the T-port isn’t blocked by the orbitrol, if it should, there would be no pressure for the 17bar circuit for transmission... or maybe i’ve missed something.
I’m very curious at your installation setup, just saw your video, great video, and very straight lines!
 
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