So over the yrs canola has been a target yield of 50. Too much moisture has been more yield reducing than being dry here. I have had 28bu due to excessive rain in the past and 58bu is my best average. Phosphate being the one obstacle capping me at 58. My 5710 is single shoot and to get past 30 actual Phos is unwise. This yr harvest is done and some NH3 down on my canola ground for 2021. Floating Phosphate is not ideal but with some trenchs with juice cultivator in the field I was debating floating on an additional 40 actual phos and sulfur fines and 15 of K then heavy harrowing it getting it in the ground somewhat. Got 130 lbs N on now and when soil tests come back I will be certain of what I need. Have heard of Avail being a good product for utilizing your phosphate to 75% from 25% from it getting tied up with calcium etc in the soil. Can anyone verify it isn't snake oil? Shooting for 70bu this yr if mother nature allows.
Canola yield bump
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dookiller
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I personally like to band my P and S in the fall. I drill it in on 7 1/2 inch spacing. Phos being virtually immobile in the soil is only available when placed with the seed for a very short time. Yes I do seed place pho’s in spring at 25 lbs of actual but once that top inch dries out it’s sat in a useless position. Three inches down the banded phos and sulphur are in the root zone and moisture ready to be used. Last time I checked roots went down.
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Lol nice comment ^^ kinda stole my thunder but we go 25 lbs in the seed row, 35 lbs mid row band 4” deep. If we don’t float the sulfur we put the sulfur in the mid row as well.
That’s actual #’s Phos. Years and years ago we used to always band Phos with our urea in the fall before we switched to nh3. I think we’ve been stratifying the Phos to high up and putting it in with the mid rows is at least getting it quite a bit deeper than just canola seed depth and I think the sulfur/urea concentrated zone helps with tie up or at least in some research I’ve read was the case.
You don’t want all your Phos in that hot zone because early on the roots don’t want anything to do with it.
That’s actual #’s Phos. Years and years ago we used to always band Phos with our urea in the fall before we switched to nh3. I think we’ve been stratifying the Phos to high up and putting it in with the mid rows is at least getting it quite a bit deeper than just canola seed depth and I think the sulfur/urea concentrated zone helps with tie up or at least in some research I’ve read was the case.
You don’t want all your Phos in that hot zone because early on the roots don’t want anything to do with it.
This year I had an interesting phenomenon on accident. I single shot some canola along with our starter fertilizer. I used Power Rich’s PowerPak 9-36-9-2 @ approximately 27lbs/acre. After that I went and seeded flax. Than I came back and seeded more canola. I didn’t realize that my fertilizer roller on my drill plugged up so I was only seeding canola with no starter. I went out and collected leaf samples where I had seeded canola with and without starter fertilizer. I did not have a tissue test run I did a test called a SAP test. SAP tests test the liquid in the leaf vs a tissue test which tests the whole leaf. It’s essentially a blood test for the plant. Interestingly enough my Phosphorus results came back almost identical, and they were all extremely low. With starter P levels were 84ppm & 90ppm. Without starter P level was 81ppm. Ideally we’re looking for approximately 300ppm. I than foliar applied a product called MKP(0-52-34) @ roughly 4lbs/acre around bolting. Foliar P is approximately 20x more efficient than soil applied. I did not have an opportunity to re SAP test after my application, but I will certainly be testing next year throughout the growing season. I will also ensure I have a couple thousand lbs of MKP on hand. I think this year I paid approximately $1/lb. As a side note all of my SAP calcium levels were deathly low and N levels were extremely high. I farm in North Dakota approximately 7 miles south of the Canadian border.
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And when you see that why wouldn’t you think DAMN maybe I should just put 11-51 down and quit pissing around with the “get them rich” mix??? Nobody in their right mind should be shorting Phos in the ground with the intention of making it up foliar it’s impossible.
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I tried some kugler plots(4 x 80 acres), to try and get me over my yeild hump. 55 seems to be my max, and 53 is my average. Anyways I saw 0 difference in any of the kugler plots. I did one that was their entire system, 80lbs of thier granular plus 2 x of thier foliar 1.5 gallons per acre and 1 x of their foliar health. The other plots where 1 and two passes of their foliar liquid. I saw 0 difference on any of it. Wasted some big moneny on those trials.
There were plenty of side by side trials in ND with 60-70lbs of 11-52 vs 30lbs of Powerich. There was not a single grower that said his Powerich under yielded his 11-52. By no means am I saying it over yielded in every trial either. I simply did it to cover more acres on a single drill fill as I do not have a large fertilizer capacity. I also do not believe that only applying 11-52 will solve our Phos issues and carry our crops Phos requirement for the entire growing season as lots of research has shown applied P to be plant availabe for a few weeks at best. I'm not trying to "short Phosphorus" I'm trying to find a balance of applying Phos in the hot zone to be effective for plant growth but also not over applying to tie up other nutrients. I also do not have the capability of mid row banding so as of now I see applying MKP to be my most effective form especially if the SAP test is calling for it. After seeing the results I will be applying 11-52 with my canola and may even do a side by side with Powerich and SAP test separately.
It’s never a waste. Costs money to learn lol. I checked out the results at the discover farm on their canola last year. Without snake oil was the best yield and best return
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Waiting on my soil test and getting a floater for 580 acres. Debating taking my coulters off and running shanks instead on the midrow. I am sick of maintaining these coulters. Parts add up and I have access to shanks. Got to look at my drill closer and see whats all involved in making a swap Just need tips and boots that will apply granular and NH3 same row. Besides when the ground is as hard as it is this yr coulters would be giving me NH3 inhalation in the cab. Last yr was bad with vapor escaping occasionally. Never had a runny nose all summer I breathed in so much. The cure for Covid!!
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Tyler. You proved an important point with the results. Seed placed P is only good for a short time and more should be banded deeper fir season long supply. We should be learning from the corn growers and their results of banding fert below the seed row. Heard of some going 8 inches deep so moisture saturation can have it available and encourage deeper rooting. Zero til guys must have most of their P in the top couple of inches if only putting it in the seed row. The same couple of dried out inches where roots don’t want to grow.
11-52-0 is actually initially soluble in water and is just as mobile as the water it might dissolve into. For irrigation calculations one litre of water can absorb 374 grams of MAP (11-52-0 ) at 20 degrees C.
Fertilizer Solubility - Dissolve a Fertilizer
Fertilizer Solubility - Dissolve a Fertilizer
I would be picking rocks for months if I did that
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