Where's number 5?

 

Can you lift up while running the fan? And maybe winter wheat seeded whenever you can get on the land this summer/fall might let you try it out? Good luck

 

#8 to avoid mouse nests take the seed and fertilizer boots off below the tank and cover with a sandwich bag and secure with a rubber band.

 

A few things i noticed with mine, I just bought it and this past crop was the first for it on my land.
*Be sure to clean out the fert cups as they are a __itch to get turning if they werent cleaned out properly before. It looked clean when i bought it but it was rough getting them to turn. Alot of wiggling in tapping back and forth with a punch and hammer.
* the mice are definately a bugger but the hoses come off easily so cleaning isnt to bad.
*The hitch behind the tank is a definate weak spot and not fun to grease so i see why this one was neglected and it broke once on one side for me. Tore the hoses off on three runs. Luckily I was just turning and looked back right when it broke so really no damage.
* Should come standard with a cordless grease gun, holy crap it takes alot of grease
* I used it to deepband before seeding and its a handfull for my 8450jd when its full of fert. I wont do that again, not because the cart is too heavy but honestly it didnt put down the product very evenly. And my land has alot of slough's and things to go around and the 45 feet has too much overlap. I need about 32 or so. Im gonna buy a anhydrous cultivator and do two passes. Honestly in our land this rig wouldnt penetrate for single pass anyway.
*Crops turned out very nice overall, I seeded only wheat and canola on about 1000 acres and both looked very nice. Good spacing and seemed to come up fairly even. although later on you could tell the fert gaps on the mature standing crop.Machines old its probably just wore out.
*I had spread fert on a 90 acre little field instead of deepbanding and it was the best field of the bunch.
*Parts are hard to get, they dont make the wheel bearings anymore so you have to buy the whole hub, and if you wreck a spindle they dont make the right size anymore, Its a bigger diameter one and you have to take it to a machinest and turn it down where it slides into the cultivator and bolts in. I had a couple wheel bearings go and it was costly cause you gotta buy the whole hub and bearings and seals.
* I do like the way the crop seeded and the concept of this air drill is simple and easily adjustable, its too bad they quit making them. They were way ahead of their time, now everyone makes em similar to this.

I will seed again with it cause i really do like it, ill be looking to purchase another one for parts or buy a better one and use mine for parts. They are a very inexpensive seeding tool.

 

Are you talking the wheel bearings and spindles for the tool carrier wheels?

 

I am talking the wheel bearings and hubs on the cultivator itself. not the big ones on the cart. My case IH dealer says they are no longer available for the hubs that came on it originally. The new ones are a little bit bigger. The seal wont go in the hub, i believe the bearings still fit but you cant buy a seal that fits.

 

HMMM I'll have to check into that. I know we put at least one set of wheel bearings in last spring and everything (seal included) seemed to go together just fine.

 

All i can guess is that they had a set from old stock. Thats lucky if they do. Like I say this is what my dealer told me anyway. I had to replace 2 and had to buy the whole assembly. There are other things on there you cant buy new anymore either, the square shaft with the cast gears that turn the fert cups. Mine wasnt looked after very well they are quite rusted. You cant buy any of those parts new anymore either. The only way would be to get old stock.
Its too bad cause it seeds very well. Its great for seeding canola, i know alot of guys here complain about their seeding tools not being able to turn down the rate for seed enough. This thing you can adjust and close right off if you want. Easily seeded 4lbs/acre with it. Thats key at todays seed prices.

 

Anyone know where there an 8500 getting wrecked for parts? I just got one and I need the PTO coupler at the pump to fit a large 1,000 rpm PTO ( 1 3/4" with 20 splines).... mine came with the small 1,000 (1 3/8 with 21 splines) . Yes, you can order them from IHC, but they want $1,400 for the coupler, there are 2 listed, and if I get the wrong one I can't send it back. You would think this would be a common part for larger hydraulic pumps, but I haven't found any on the net as of yet... I know this is an old post, but it came up in my google searches. Guess I should be checking aftermarket sources for spare wheel bearings and seals as well...

 

PTO Coupler 1.375 x21 spline wanted

looking for 1.375 PTO coupler for Caseih 8500 air drill also have 1,75 x20 spline available

 

whtbaron - I have one that I am sure will never need. It is mounted on pump with tapered shaft?

 

I haven't pulled it off yet... didn't realize it was a tapered shaft but that would complicate things. If you want to sell it, let me know.... could probably mail it for less than $30. I know there's a bolt in the center to hold it to the pump.

 

check the area where the cart hooks to the tool. Ours was breaking there and we just caught it before a disaster of two ripping apart. Also don't get the drive chain from the ground driven sprocket up to the metering system too tight. Our bottom hub as out of round and got adjusted too tight and screwed the shaft up.

 

The chain on mine was rusted solid when I picked it up, so I cut it off and got a new one. I haven't installed it yet so I'll be sure to check that out carefully. You aren't the first one to mention the 2 machines breaking apart either... funny how you find this stuff out after you buy things...

 

Well, thanks to member Flatfoot, I was able to get my hands on the right adapter for much much less than IHC's $1400 price tag. If I ever get done with the soys now I need to get that drill fired up and see what it needs before spring. Looking at that weak area that Rooster was pointing out, it may need some extra bracing and gusseting before it breaks again.

 

I am looking into a seeder just like the one you described. Are you still running it?

I am curious how the frame held up for you. The one I am looking at had the center section crack last spring and was fixed, but I had heard these have a history of frame issues.

I am going to look at this one at the end of the week, any areas of concern?

The pictures I received showed gauge wheels next to each hoe opener. You know anything about these, how well they actually work or if they should be taken off?

I have also been considering the double disc version of this. Any regrets on your end not going with the double disc?

Did you ever proceed with liquid N?

 

ran one with liquid for a while, 8500 at 45 ft, went back to seperately applied fertilizer

 

Any reason why? I don’t have experience with liquid, would be to do starter only on wheat. Rest would be broad cast and incorporated before.

 

morb1lee - my experience is frames on 7" spacing you have to keep a eye on (the whole machine), 12" spacing frames very few problems.
Any chance you could share a pic of those gauge wheels you refer to??

 

Hopefully it attaches

 

I have a 45 ft in my yard for sale it could be sold for parts or other wise, tank is rusted and openers are poor

 

Wish you were closer, I'd be looking at that. I'm still trying to get the 8500 into the field for the first time. I'm having problems with the hydraulics. The wings work fine, and the left side of the machine works good, but the right side is giving me problems. The second last cylinder won't extend all the way so it isn't bypassing oil to the last cylinder (they use slots at the top of the bore to bypass to the next cylinder and are plumbed in series instead of parallel like most IHC products... more like a Morris). We took the 2nd last cylinder apart and it seems good inside, and when we put it on a tractor alone it put oil out the top port. It acts like air in between the 2nd and 3rd cylinders, but I've blown about 5 gallons of oil through it and bled it to no avail. The last cylinder on that side is an aftermarket one and I wondered if it was just the wrong type of cylinder. I replumbed it so the last cylinder was bypassed and the remaining cylinders worked better, but the last one still won't extend beyond 8" and it needs to hit about 8.5" to bypass properly. Any ideas for those experienced with these drills?

 

i put a seal kit into the one of mine, but all oem cylinders ...
can't help with aftermarket ones at all, no idea

 

Apparently the seal kits are no longer available... I'm guessing the previous owner just slapped that aftermarket cylinder on to sell it. Wish I knew if it ever worked, or if I have something else going on. They tell me the correct way to bleed them is with the cylinder rods disconnected and fully extended. Did you have any problems bleeding after you put the kit in?

 

Apparently the seal kits are no longer available
Did you have any problems bleeding after you put the kit in?

seal kits may be NLA at dealer, but local [Maki] hydraulic shop had them on the shelf in stock , weird cylinders, only ones like that ??
as far as bleeding, no problems to remember, didn't take them apart or run with couplings off, was two years ago ?

 

I actually ended up getting a 787/730 John Deere. Partially because parts were hard to find of the 8500/8600 cih. The other reason was the seeders for sale were either beat or the asking price hi and wasn’t much lower than what I got. Ripped the cultervator parts and harrow, it’s pretty much a 44’ 455 air drill with 787 cart

 

well, happy with mine, but don't need it any more ..
i found parts relatively easy to get, as long as you didn't look at the dealer ..
for example, 10 complete shank assemblies for $100 plus shipping..
same as the 7200 ??

and [as far as I know]] the main tank hasn't seen fertilizer, nice shape yet, and the atom jet openers were worth the purchase price ..

 

This actually has 2 aftermarket cylinders on the right side, the first big one beside the depth control and the last one on the wing. I'm wondering if not having the flow through like the originals is limiting the total amount of oil available to that side, and not letting the cylinders raise all the way. Man I hate dealing with f-ups like this...

 

Diameter of the cylinders when hooked in series is critical, the first being the largest and each one following is smaller. Reason for this is it is the rod (small displacement) end oil of the first one that pushes out the piston of the second and so on and so on. If one of those cylinders is not the right size, not enough or too much oil is moving between those cylinders and throws the whole system out of wack.
Have no hands on with one of those machines so can't say how it is set up, but if its any help, most times you see about a quarter inch decrease in barrel diameter for each successive cylinder.

 

can you get the origional cylinders for it ??
not sure where in manitoba, but you should have access to a hydraulic shop ?

 

The sizes are ok, but I think the issue is the lack of ports in the top to allow the oil to flow to the next cylinder. That wouldn't matter on the end, but I'm quite sure the first one is going to be an issue. So far almost nothing is available for this drill from IH and they would want over $1k/cylinder anyway if the rest of the pricing keeps up. We hooked up the electronics yesterday and the box does nothing but scream. I can turn the clutch on and off, and change the fan speed, but I can't shut the alarm off. I've pretty much given up on this piece of scrap for this spring and I'm going to pull the old hoe drill out and hook it up today. Still too wet to go to the field, but I might be able to get going tomorrow or Monday if I hook onto a machine that works. I might look for a 30 ft. machine that works and use this one for parts, or just cut my losses and look for an old JD or something else that I can still get parts for. There doesn't seem to have been many of them in Manitoba... most used parts sources I'm finding are in Sask. or Montana.

 

you must have gotten it fairly cheap, if you can scrap it ??