Get the Kile manufacturing K 518.2 Bar. I had them in a small tube machine that I ran a stripper head on and it did a pretty good job. You need bars specific to a small tube rotor.

 

 

I don’t believe the small tube rotor supports having straight separator bars on it. Over the years I have read that lots of people have had issues with corn loss and small tube rotors so most people go to a large tube rotor.
I am not sure if anybody tried the 10° bars on a small tube rotor in corn so maybe it can perform with the right modifications but you might spend the money and still not be happy.

 

I have a small tube rotor in my 8230 that has all spike tooth 28 degree threshing bars on it and am thinking that to slow down the corn and bean through put I should put the 10 degree regular bars on the front half. I don't know if the part number of those bars or do the bars for a standard rotor work on the small tube also?? I also plan on putting straight bars on the back half as there's none on it now. Should I use 4 or 8 straight bars? This machine had been setup for rice as it came from the South.
Thanks for any help!

Theres absolutely nothing wrong with ST rotors. They just need to be configured correctly.
Yes you will need 10° cereal bars over the concave area.…… then 28° spiked over the separation area. There is no “straight bars” - same as for AFX rotor - for the ST rotor. However, there is a rotor bar that Case make for ST rotors that has a straight raised edge on the back of the bar, to create the same/similar effect of the AFX straight bar. But realise, straight type bars soak up HP. Lots of it!
I was just in Canada working with a mob that runs all ST rotors in their machines in wheat, beans, corn, canola etc. etc.
For years, all those machines were “setup & serviced” by their local dealer …… & they’d never checked the “level & centre” of the concaves. Never checked the sieves for even opening & calibrated ….. you name it ……. It was never done! Just proves again & again, check, measure & adjust your machines yourself to be absolutely confident everything is correct.

10° ST rotor bars surround a single 28° ST rotor bar. 👇. All these are “non-spiked” ST rotor bars ….

Pretty sure the p/n is 84317777

 

Any advantage or disadvantage to using 10 degree spiked bars in the back half of rotor vs 28 degree spiked bars? Thanks.

 

I don’t think that 10° spikes would give as much as a performance advantage compared to 10° bars in the threshing area. In the threshing area crop is forced up against the rotor/ rasp bars a lot more so the wider ramp and shallower side of the 10° bar would allow a lot more crop to get on top of the rasp bar as well as move it slower towards the rear and give it more time in the threshing area.
Once you get past the threshing area the crop isn’t being pinched against the rasp bars as hard, so the 10° bars wouldn’t make as much as a difference.
There should also be 8 28° spikes in the back half of the rotor already. Personally that’s enough for me because I drop some straw for baling every year and spike bars really tear up the straw.