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@BrianTee Am i correct in the assumption that on your V2 PCB the Ethernet module is only needed if i intend on using it? and therefore something i can omit from the build?

That is correct. If you want ethernet, you just put the module under the nano but all the rest is exactly the same. Just the code is different.
 
Discussion starter · #383 ·
A quick update:


Next up:

  • Creating a "semi automated test setup" (software and wiring so most/all functions can be tested without too much manual intervention.
  • "Solder" some more PCBs (until I find a good distributor I might sell some units outside europe - details will follow when software is done. Outside europe only since there are some regulatory stuff that applies if I sell inside europe, that implies huge one time and yearly fees regardless of the number of parts sold...)
  • "Port" the software from coffetrac (support of the port expander, LSM9DS1, driving the VNH7070 ...)

Test setup finished. Found two minor issues:

  • pulling the rx to GND during startup on the simpleRTK2Blight-Uart let the ESP enter programming mode
  • RS232 can enter power save mode if no external rs232 signal exists - only an issue if the other side has the same setup
The RS232 problem can be easily solved in the next revision with no visible changes or changes in the code.
The uart is a bit harder. might be able to swap two pins (PWM of the motor-controller), but that would result in changes needed in software. And I guess the rx will be pulled high from the simplertk2b, so that shouldn't be a real problem.


There are now four finished boards for testing, so next up porting software and asking a distributor if he'll would take care of all that ugly WEEE-stuff in europe ;)
 
A quick update:





Test setup finished. Found two minor issues:

  • pulling the rx to GND during startup on the simpleRTK2Blight-Uart let the ESP enter programming mode
  • RS232 can enter power save mode if no external rs232 signal exists - only an issue if the other side has the same setup
The RS232 problem can be easily solved in the next revision with no visible changes or changes in the code.
The uart is a bit harder. might be able to swap two pins (PWM of the motor-controller), but that would result in changes needed in software. And I guess the rx will be pulled high from the simplertk2b, so that shouldn't be a real problem.


There are now four finished boards for testing, so next up porting software and asking a distributor if he'll would take care of all that ugly WEEE-stuff in europe ;)
So are you allowed to sell outside of Europe, or do the regulations apply to anywhere you sell PCB's?
 

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Discussion starter · #391 ·
So I buy from you, then sell into EU, can you handle the shipping to customer for me?

:22::22::22::22::22::22::22::22::22:
I really like the idea, but as far as I remember the "goods" have to leave the eu physically (else the buyer won't become the importer).


I'll get a quote next week from a business that already has all that regulatory stuff set up. If it's reasonable the problem is solved.
 
Parts are in just sorting through the pile, and i have noticed some extra's in the V2 list (Brian's)

so far only have looked at the larger items.

I have 3 relays and one socket. One relay uses the socket the other 2 are solder down pins.
i also received 4 of the IC mounts. needed 3.
Maybe an extra terminal or two as well

I don't care about the extra's they can go in the parts bin. More of a note for others that are trying to stay as low budget as possible.

@BrianTee I noted back in post #325 with v1, you mentioned that the 3A diode wasn't enough. is that still the case on v2 or was it reworked to use a 3A Diode without issue?

None the less thanks the footwork needed to get this far eh

Cheers,
Joe
 
Thought i would add a couple of build in progress pictures
Nothing is soldered yet, need to dig out the hakko still.



Edited to add:
NOTE: Relay with plug base will NOT fit inside the box. Use the direct solder ones.

Now to find my solder wick lol

Cheers,
Joe
 

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Have now done a short power on test, no magic smoke escaped.

Now to reinstall the Arduino software so i can get the nano programmed.

Suggestion is to add standoffs to the BOM for the MD13S.

On the bottom (as i have it oriented in the picture) the steer, imp, and remote V/O/C what is the intention for these? are they for switches to on/off work. and auto steer

Cheers,
Joe
 

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Have just skimmed through all 40 pages of this thread trying to find what the remote switch is for but could not find an answer. Looking at the Arduino code didn't shed any light either.

Can someone advise me on what the remote switch (pin 8) is for?
 
Question to Ropecope. What is it painted as a resistor, signed as a capacitor?
The second question, can I replace the diode 1n4004 with 1n4007?
I would say that it's a tiny inductor - shaped as a resistor and rated at 10 micro Henrys. That's why the symbol is the same, but with different designation.
I'm no expert, but I think that you can easily use a 1n4007 diode. It just has a higher reverse voltage of 700V instead of 280V for 1n4004.
 
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