We have a 1035 Brandt with Koehler 38hp gas, it has more than enough power. If you plan on moving tough wheat though I would go with at least a 35hp

 

I have a 30 hp kohler on a 10x39 it was short on power until I drilled out the main jets and gave it some fuel. It seems with all the emission rules they have stuff running so lean and no way to just turn out a high speed screw to give it a bit more fuel. Sounds like guys are happy with the 35 hp Vanguard, but I have not had one myself.

 

I have a 30 hp kohler on a 10x39 it was short on power until I drilled out the main jets and gave it some fuel. It seems with all the emission rules they have stuff running so lean and no way to just turn out a high speed screw to give it a bit more fuel. Sounds like guys are happy with the 35 hp Vanguard, but I have not had one myself.

I also have a 30hp Kohler on a 8x45 and seems short of power and on my old 8x50 it only has a 18hp Kohler and seems to have way more power. Only have augured canola with the new one not sure how it will handle wheat. What size did you drill it out too? I was wondering if they got the wrong size pulleys on it.

 

Are you very sure the auger is only 30 feet long ?, just that current augers in Brandt are as short as 35 feet. If it is only 30 feet long, it certainly would have to be on a very steep angle to reach over a taller trailer or body job and for the distance traveled/feet of auger it would have to have some hp behind it I would think, not to mention the extra bushels a supercharged bottom would cram into it.

I don't have the experience with an engine on a 10" auger but as well like Hondaman mentioned, I also talked to a farmer who was using a 10 X 40"ish" auger and was using a 35hp Vanguard and he certainly was happy with it, how it started in cold weather and no issues like he had been having with Kohlers and the like in the past. Definitely worth looking at and pricing compared to the Kohler.

 

Yup she is a 30 footer. It is an oddball auger. It is a late nineties built, and is BLACK! It is surprising how well it reaches semis, yes the angle is more intense, but the length makes it a LOT lighter than a longer one, and it is easy to manhandle around, it is balanced that well.

Thanks guys, I may look at a 35 horse. It ran fine full of clean wheat with that 10hp at the plant, going into semi's with ease...

It is a FAST pig of a thing. I need to get her going...

 

Zero problems with our 3 kohler commands, they start great in the cold and just seem to work great all around. Just my expirience though!

 

Try lamberts is stoon or Regina they seemed to have decent prices on auger motors

 

That is quite the short auger then, definitely easier to pull around by hand then the old Sask built McIntyre with pto I used to grunt around with to get under some hopper bins. One thing is for sure, you can never mess up by having reserve power as its the most frustrating thing ever to have an underpowered unit and have it stall out and of course full of grain and then it not able to start up again.

Were you planning on installing an electric clutch as a few burnt off belts can soon pay for one, never mind how slick it is to use one.

 

30 hp would be suffice. 35 ideal. I use 35 on 10-40 sakundiak and its ample most of the time except tough wheat and fert. I would get 40 next time.
Mine is vanguard which I recommend over kohler.

 

Had a 10x 35 Brandt with a 24 hp Honda on it and i would buy it anytime again,just bought to a 10 x 41 westfield with a 35hp Kohler and the Honda was better in the winter ! Don't think you need 35hp.

 

Have a 30hp Kohler on 8x46/ mover/under floor/sweep in bin on hyd. Just barely enough power. Get a 40hp, horses are getting smaller.

 

Easier to have more power than not enough, go with a 35hp or better . I run a 36 Kohler on ours, its seen 1.5 million bushels with no troubles yet.

 

uthinkyourwet, you didn't have plans of putting hydraulics on it to run a drag system of any sort were you as I assumed not ? . If you were, I'm not sure what sort of HP would be required then ... it would be substantial over running the basic auger.

 

http://www.sdstate.edu/abe/research/power/upload/Auger-analysis-2006-No-066043.pdf

A paper done on auger power

 

I have a 30 hp kohler on 10x39 and 35 hp vanguard on 8x50 with sweep, both are sufficient power for those augers, however I do prefer the vanguard. Starts better in cold, way quieter and less finicky. The kohler has been to the shop a couple times.

 

x2

 

vangard all the way i got a 35 i think it is had tpo deliver in 50 below wind chill weather pull the choke out would turn over twice n fire right up push chocke to quater out until i got the grain truck there then you could push choke right in got a suburu 25hp injected engine total junk nothing but issues been to the dealer 10 times

 

A paper done on auger power

Yer kidding me... I think I went to high school with Adam who's listed in that study as a student...

 

I have a Kohler 29 EFI on a 8 x 45 wheat heart. Barely enough power, and just took it off the auger to take into the shop to get it repaired. Augered about 75,000 bu, these engines are junk.

 

I have a 8x50 wheat heart that come with a 30 hp Koehler. What an underpowered cold blooded beast. Couldn't keep it warm enough but it burnt up. When it did run it seemed to have enough power. I replaced it with a 27 hp Kohler and think it handles the auger and sweep better than the other engine. The 27 is the older style with lower set carb and throttle body. The 30 has a higher set carb and freezes up because it doesn't get as much engine heat. Besides the cold weather kit is a complete joke; a chunk of tissue thin flex pipe attached to the exhaust pipe.
Maybe the 27 has more true hp than the 30 did. But it could be the 27 is just a better engine. Also the problem could be attributed to Kohler moving their production to china.

 

snapper21, the 30hp Kohler I had purchased a few years ago was set up just like the 25/27 horse with the low set air filter and the tube through the muffler as the heat exchanger. It was where this engine shop sourced them that they were being modified to add those components to get rid of that tall air filter and long draw crank case breather line that was guaranteed to freeze off in the winter on a higher humidity day and blow the crank seal out !. That's why I went for what I did at the time although I do understand since that time someone else as I don't think its Kohler has an improved system that can switch from summer to winter use in where the intake gets its air flow from.

There would be a thread on here from over a year ago where a few of us were discussing the lean issue, Hondaman and so on ( perhaps you as well ) as yes I did a modification a few years back with the main jets as no way would the engine work properly with the way it was jetted during the winter time in just an average winter day. What is so frustrating, no carb parts can be purchased from Kohler and that includes any jets so it makes it interesting to tune. In my case the engine would die just like the key was turned off when I was augering and just touch the controls to lift the auger or move the auger wheels, wouldn't even try to recover as the governor would slam the throttle plates all the way open and gulp in the air but there wasn't enough fuel to go along with that because of how lean they tune them. I had to slide the choke on just enough to change the sound a little and that made all the difference although obviously can't get full power out of an engine with the intake partially blocked ... jet drilling was the only way to solve it.

R, it will be interesting to hear what was found with your fuel injected engine, they are putting those in the Miller welders ... don't know what the track record has been though. I was warned to stay away from them for my use though by the local engine shop because of the issues they had with one they sold but I think they figured it out finally after a few electronic boxs were fried. It was the electric clutch when it was turned off and the energy built up in the system had no where to go and would back feed into the box and blow it up so he put diodes all over that auger to hold the power spikes from reaching the box.

 

So true about blowing the crank seal off. Did it and thought i fried the engine. I took the crank breather hose off the carb so it wouldn't suck all that garbage into the carb. As well seemed I always ran it at a quarter choke even in the spring. The proper cold weather kit on the smaller Kohler is a fool proof outfit. Most of this stuff is designed to work in Texas not in the north.
We have a 24 hp Robin on our welder and it's just about as cold blooded as that 30 Kohler. 30 below and no way it will start inside a shed.

 

Maybe a bit off the actual topic, but still relative....just curious why some of you are trying to run fairly large augers with small gas engines which are known to give grief in the cold....why not use PTO drive? I have both, and you don't need to tell me that one is more convenient than the other, but when it's cold out and I need to load out, don't see the point of messing with a froze up engine when I have a tractor sitting in a nice warm shop

 

For me personally I have used both pto and gas engine and unless it's a swing away I wouldn't use a pto for out load ever again. All my augers have movers so I need some kind of engine anyway so it might as well be big enough to run everything. As for froze up engines I put the auger in the shop the night before I need it so it is as warm as your tractor. That is why I mess with engines anyway.

 

Maybe a bit off the actual topic, but still relative....just curious why some of you are trying to run fairly large augers with small gas engines which are known to give grief in the cold....why not use PTO drive? I have both, and you don't need to tell me that one is more convenient than the other, but when it's cold out and I need to load out, don't see the point of messing with a froze up engine when I have a tractor sitting in a nice warm shop

All our augers are either PTO or run with electric motors, granted we only use them on one farm place and our bins aren't in the middle of nowhere. Only thing with an engine on it is the old elevator (Like the kind used to put ear corn in a crib or bales into the loft of the barn) and that is some 1940's or '50's brigs that somehow stays running... Exhaust is a 90 degree pipe elbow out of the head, the thing sounds like a Harley when its running.

I have noticed that it depends a lot on the brand of engine for how well they run in winter, one doesn't have to look much further than a walk behind snowblower to see some of those engines are built very cheap. Even some of the brands that were good years ago aren't worth scrap nowdays in the winter.

 

I was having all kinds of issues with carb freezing up on my 40hp kohler last 2 winters this winter switched to 91octane gas and carb never froze up this winter. The gas with ethanol always picks up moisture and freezes up bottom of carb 91 octane has no ethanol will run 91 all year round in small engines from now on.

 

with the advent of ecm systems on most everything now it is imperative that free wheeling diodes be installed to absorb and dissipate the reverse current spikes that electric clutches and solenoids can induce. it took waukesha engine division a good year to realize what was frying their ecms. and at the tune of 40000 bucks per ecm no one was happy, we were on a campaign to r and r and upfit all systems asap . a simple fix that virtually took a few minutes per device and cost less than 2 bucks... engineers could not figure it out, it took 2 of us with an osciliscope an afternoon on a new unit we commissioned to identify the issue and make a remedy..

 

I am thinking like AB, have a small diesel utility tractor already so think a 10 x 50 pto auger would be a good way to go. Especially when guys start talking about Diesel engines mounted on the auger. Install a hydraulic mover kit on the pto auger, drag the auger into position with the utility tractor, hook up 20 ft of hose between tractor and auger to use the mover and get it into final position and then hook up pto. Not practical if needed at various sites though.