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AgOpenGPS - Autosteer PCB

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#42 · (Edited)
ropecope said:
I did not understand immediately what you said, but I'm clear now.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you can use the protection ideas from Doppelgrau in post 19, specified in the attached mainPCB.pdf file page 2 to 5, and maybe add 5,1 v zener diodes.
And without the resistor to reduce voltage from 5 V to 3.3 V.
It seems there are almost both a pcb for arduino and esp32 now.:49:
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
On the Inputs the resistors for the voltage divider are calculated to tolerate up to 15V (putting "raw 12V" on the autosteer/workswitch inputs. Lower voltages can be detected using voltage sensing).
My beta version PCB (after a few minor changes compared to the already published version) is currently on it's way. Hope I receive it next week. In two weeks I have holidays, and then I could assemble it (hopefully soldering the MMA isn't too difficult) and test the design. (Currently my main concern is the power supply, if the simple LDOs are okay or will get too hot.)
 
#45 ·
Had a good long drive from Fort McMurray so lots of time to think about the basic pcb. Here are my thoughts.



1. In terms of protection in a harsh tractor environment for inputs from steer switch and machine switch, why not use small relays to provide isolated control to the Arduino "D" input pins. Run from the +12v power through the relay coil and then route externally the line for control on off for the relay All the user has to do then is ground the line in order to turn on the relay. If they hooked the line to 12 volts, nothing would happen. And if it was accidentally shorted to ground, all it would do is turn on. Have an inductive kickback diode in parallel with coil also. Would be indestructible and well isolated.



2. Have the MMA8452Q on the board. Use pins/sockets so it is easily removed/replaced. Use the 3.3 provided by the arduino 3.3v supply - its double regulated.



3. Use the ADS1115 instead of the Arduino Analog in. This allows the use of differential input and configure it as differential input as the default. can use the gnd as one line, the WAS output line as the other input. Using the ADS isolates the WAS lines from the Arduino and like the MMA, use pins/sockets for easy replacement should something go wrong with it. It also allows more pins for relay section control pins.



4. Rather then using an adjustable switching supply like the HW-411, use one a lot bigger that can also drive relays for section control.... https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-CC-8A-9A...4016-Power-module/311164183684?hash=item4872d4a484:g:2HEAAOSwXLFZhZ9v:rk:1:pf:0


5. Using the cytron controllers, use the 13A for motor drive and use the dual 10A for solenoid control. Use pins 9,10 for control. When using single use the 9 for pwm and 10 for direction. When using dual use 9 and 10 for pwm and then just tie the 2 direction pins high.



Just to draw it up now.
 
#47 ·
#48 ·
I think this is my final comment on this.....:) If this is going for a dedicated pcb, I think integrated relays for sectional control would be a super nice addition. Something where all the power feeds are already tied together. PITA running a hot wire to each relay or hard soldering on the back. DPDT with choice of what polarity the center pins are would be a future proof idea, but AFIK nothing in ag runs everything resting at ground needing DPDT. +1 to Lars suggestion too.
 
#49 ·
BrianTee said:
Has most of the features anyone would really want. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Based on this scheme,
without power supply,
but with connecting arduino nano pins as in the sketch Autosteer_Switch / Button

there is still no power supply for the relays


Think about the switches whether relays or some mosfets instead

This is not a basic PCB
PCB has everything anyone would want :)
and can use what he wants
 

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#50 ·
ropecope said:
What do you think about this?


I did not want BNO and MMA to put it on the board because you never know how the board will stand in the box and how the box will stand in the tractor
Click to expand...



Hello,
I made myself a box BNO and MMA. with RS232 cable recovered.
the box is $ 2 on aliexpress: "Box Waterproof Box 85x58x33mm"



ropecope nice job, I test your first pcb card from January. :54:
 

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#51 ·
Have we slid back to building a board for everyone that does everything ? There can be more then 1 board design. It may be hard to know where to cut off the basic board in terms of parts. There are so many great ideas, how do we chop it down enough to be still easy enough and useful.

And maybe we are all a little optimistic to think that anyone who will actually build and use AgOpenGPS doesn't already have the skills to build any version required. If we have a pcb for auto steer and a pcb for power supply, and you have to solder all the parts, connectors and cabling and get everything just right, put it in a box, load all the software, do all the settings, and then hope it works and troubleshoot that 1 cold solder joint in 500...... Certainly not for everyone.


Is the simple board just a really bad idea? I'm really good at bad ideas!!!


The FET is a great part for many applications, but Metal Oxide Semis (the MOS of MOSFET) have die punch thru above 20 volts - remember an implement switch wire goes a long way which can touch anything - like a 4 million volt spark discharge from a charged up air seeder hose. Or you sit down on the that well insulated leather seat on a dry day, flip over the steer motor which picks up a a million volt spark from your body straight to the arduino digital input. The advantage of a small relay is 100% isolation, indestructible, with audible feedback as well.It can work with either button or switch.

Please delete all references to the DOGS2 and BNO for the basic board. If the ADS1115 is used, then A0 is not required for any application. It can handle both a self installed WAS as well as factory WAS. The DOGS2 is just too expensive and requires 12v, and is huge.

Pins 9,10 ie Timer 2 should be used for PWM since its the least used timer when doing udp.
 
#52 ·
BrianTee said:
Have we slid back to building a board for everyone that does everything ? There can be more then 1 board design. It may be hard to know where to cut off the basic board in terms of parts. There are so many great ideas, how do we chop it down enough to be still easy enough and useful.

And maybe we are all a little optimistic to think that anyone who will actually build and use AgOpenGPS doesn't already have the skills to build any version required. If we have a pcb for auto steer and a pcb for power supply, and you have to solder all the parts, connectors and cabling and get everything just right, put it in a box, load all the software, do all the settings, and then hope it works and troubleshoot that 1 cold solder joint in 500...... Certainly not for everyone.


Is the simple board just a really bad idea? I'm really good at bad ideas!!!


The FET is a great part for many applications, but Metal Oxide Semis (the MOS of MOSFET) have die punch thru above 20 volts - remember an implement switch wire goes a long way which can touch anything - like a 4 million volt spark discharge from a charged up air seeder hose. Or you sit down on the that well insulated leather seat on a dry day, flip over the steer motor which picks up a a million volt spark from your body straight to the arduino digital input. The advantage of a small relay is 100% isolation, indestructible, with audible feedback as well.It can work with either button or switch.

Please delete all references to the DOGS2 and BNO for the basic board. If the ADS1115 is used, then A0 is not required for any application. It can handle both a self installed WAS as well as factory WAS. The DOGS2 is just too expensive and requires 12v, and is huge.

Pins 9,10 ie Timer 2 should be used for PWM since its the least used timer when doing udp.
Click to expand...
I agree, for most of the things you have written, for the basic user. I did not know about this for the MOSFET.

I followed the arduino code that is on the github and in relation to that I did draw the board, if there was a sketch with a basic pin out, I would adjust to it.
You should make a sketch for the arduino and then make a board based on it.

I'm sorry to kick out dogs, as I own it in my possession and I believe that many have it, but I would not buy it anymore when there is an MMA.

There are a lot of combinations autosteer and from the beginning with the construction of AOG I had a dilemma how and what. Whether serial connection or UDP to brick or BNO, MMA or dogs and changes with pins on the arduino

So I thought it best to have everything on the board so that I can test everything and see what works best for me.

Tomorrow I will draw a basic option.
 
#53 ·
ropecope said:
I agree, for most of the things you have written, for the basic user. I did not know about this for the MOSFET.

I followed the arduino code that is on the github and in relation to that I did draw the board, if there was a sketch with a basic pin out, I would adjust to it.
You should make a sketch for the arduino and then make a board based on it.

I'm sorry to kick out dogs, as I own it in my possession and I believe that many have it, but I would not buy it anymore when there is an MMA.

There are a lot of combinations autosteer and from the beginning with the construction of AOG I had a dilemma how and what. Whether serial connection or UDP to brick or BNO, MMA or dogs and changes with pins on the arduino

So I thought it best to have everything on the board so that I can test everything and see what works best for me.

Tomorrow I will draw a basic option.
Click to expand...

Do you think relays or shottcky/resistor network for protection of switch inputs?


There is nothing wrong with a few board designs, just as long as we have 1 that has only the basic required components and we can do full documentation/videos on. Having the power supplies on board makes a much simpler (for the person building) the system. Were you thinking of including the BTS switch as well? It's a nice device. The XL4016 is a nice switching reg which could be put on the board in the form of parts and set permanently to 5volts.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
A wild idea for the section control PCB: Using a lot of VNH7070.
Each VNH7070 in fullbridge-Mode you can control one motor driven valves, or in halve-bridges-mode two electromagnetic valves (even use PWM to reduce the power needed).
(Or one Board and one extension-board for more output. Base board maybe with 5 VNH7070, extension with another 5.)
 
#55 ·
BrianTee said:
Do you think relays or shottcky/resistor network for protection of switch inputs?


There is nothing wrong with a few board designs, just as long as we have 1 that has only the basic required components and we can do full documentation/videos on. Having the power supplies on board makes a much simpler (for the person building) the system. Were you thinking of including the BTS switch as well? It's a nice device. The XL4016 is a nice switching reg which could be put on the board in the form of parts and set permanently to 5volts.
Click to expand...



I think it's enough to make a protection with the diodes, but, of course, it's better to be a relay, of course, I did not see what kind of relay on the market is. The diodes are much more accessible, do not take up a lot of space

BTS432e2 I already put on pcb power supply.

XL4016 do you need such a current? When I create a PCB board, I try to be as small as possible, and now I want to avoid the SMD components. I got the regulators 78s05 that can hold 2 A
 
#56 ·
ropecope said:
I think it's enough to make a protection with the diodes, but, of course, it's better to be a relay, of course, I did not see what kind of relay on the market is. The diodes are much more accessible, do not take up a lot of space

BTS432e2 I already put on pcb power supply.

XL4016 do you need such a current? When I create a PCB board, I try to be as small as possible, and now I want to avoid the SMD components. I got the regulators 78s05 that can hold 2 A
Click to expand...

Well if you start driving 8 relays or more for section control and 2 or 3 for switches plus udp adapter, the power dissipation is very much exceeded on that reg, and it will release the magic smoke.
 
#57 ·
Oh, If I could every keep pace with you guys! I love the changes and improvements.
Every time I gather up parts and start putting the stuff together, there's a new round of parts.
And thinking about the technology, I only see the hardware and devices continue to change and improve (especially GPS and IMU space).

Now I need to figure out what an MMA is. Even though I have a DOG2, BN055, IMUBrick v2, etc!
 
#60 ·
Another shot at the basic auto steer. Uses the 10 Amp switching supply module for 5V, the 12 to 24 volt up convertor to drive steer motor, relay input for switches. Can still add 0.1 uF caps on the ADS input lines to help filter noise.



Thoughts? Anything missing?
 

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