[apm]

I think adding connection for remote reset is a must if allowing communication via usb.

Occasionally needed to sense +12v for workswitch, so dip switches or jumpers on a relay input would be good.

 

[LarsVest]

Another shot at the basic auto steer. Uses the 10 Amp switching supply module for 5V, the 12 to 24 volt up convertor to drive steer motor, relay input for switches. Can still add 0.1 uF caps on the ADS input lines to help filter noise.



Thoughts? Anything missing?

I like this setup and the posibility to ad required modules.
As we no longer use A0 for WAS, would that make room for 8 relays? and use this ULN2803APG Eight Darlington Arrays
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112339502385

 

[BrianTee]

I like this setup and the posibility to ad required modules.
As we no longer use A0 for WAS, would that make room for 8 relays? and use this ULN2803APG Eight Darlington Arrays
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112339502385

Makes sense, but since there is limited pins, how about doing 5 relays and reserve a couple other inputs for remote control of the auto and manual buttons? I used it on the air seeder last year, built the buttons into the console arm rest - was ridiculously handy to not have to reach to the touch screen.



Although attaching a numeric wireless touchpad is still kind of the ultimate since you can control most buttons that way in AOG. But having dedicated remote auto/manual is sure nice.

 

[LarsVest]

Makes sense, but since there is limited pins, how about doing 5 relays and reserve a couple other inputs for remote control of the auto and manual buttons? I used it on the air seeder last year, built the buttons into the console arm rest - was ridiculously handy to not have to reach to the touch screen.



Although attaching a numeric wireless touchpad is still kind of the ultimate since you can control most buttons that way in AOG. But having dedicated remote auto/manual is sure nice.

Absolutely, dedicated remote would be nice. So instead maybe I2C pins to conect slave arduino for aditional relays.

 

[8582]

Have we slid back to building a board for everyone that does everything ? There can be more then 1 board design. It may be hard to know where to cut off the basic board in terms of parts. There are so many great ideas, how do we chop it down enough to be still easy enough and useful.

I think my last post came out wrong. My whole idea is having it modular. The very base should be (IMO)just like a regular run of the mill computer mother board. The very basics of autosteer. Want to add DOG ADS BT etc, plug it in. Same goes for sectional control, separate board. Just plug it in. The cleaner, the better, less chances of things going wrong That is one of the things I really liked about ropecope's layout.

 

[BrianTee]

Here is the latest RopeCope. Has the BTS as a high power switch/protection. Still missing a couple things but getting there.


What does the group think? Functional basic board? The 4 relays are for steer switch, implement switch, remote auto, remote manual.

 

[ropecope]

Here is the latest RopeCope. Has the BTS as a high power switch/protection. Still missing a couple things but getting there.


What does the group think? Functional basic board? The 4 relays are for steer switch, implement switch, remote auto, remote manual.

For Power ON, on the board, it must be constant 5v. If bts432e2 is used, no fuse is required. It is written in the data sheet. Does it?

 

[ropecope]

Here is the latest RopeCope. Has the BTS as a high power switch/protection. Still missing a couple things but getting there.


What does the group think? Functional basic board? The 4 relays are for steer switch, implement switch, remote auto, remote manual.

:sFun_coffeeaddict:

 

[BrianTee]

So sweet! I'll make a video to summarize so far.

 

[BrianTee]

A little video describing the board.

The 12v to 5v convertor https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Waterpro...t=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001801&hvtargid=pla-593765168314&psc=1


Schematic. RopeCope I brought out the D2 and D3 lines on the PWM connector as well. Should there be space made for the cytron MD13S on the PCB as well? And also maybe make it a big enough space for the dual 10A ? Would make mounting that motor driver quite easy then. Then the IBT-2 would also fit in that spot and with D2,D3 at the connector it would work with every controller.

Edit: here is the mechanical drawing for the dual cytron https://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pdf2/rb-cyt-153_-_mdd10a_users_manual_v2.0_-_2017-06.pdf

Please all look over the schematic, now is the time to make corrections

 

[BrianTee]

And all in one.

 

[Weder]

And all in one.

The common ETH28J60 nano stacking module uses pin 10 as CS/SS, so it's not a good idea to reserve pin 8 instead of.
Another thing is A6 and A7 are input only!

 

[Weder]

Should there be space made for the cytron MD13S on the PCB as well? And also maybe make it a big enough space for the dual 10A ? Would make mounting that motor driver quite easy then. Then the IBT-2 would also fit in that spot and with D2,D3 at the connector it would work with every controller.

In early versions I added the mounting holes of the cytron, so i could piggyback it.

Also made the pinout identical to cytron so i could use ready cables.


Same for the IBT, using long stack screws and a 8pin IDC header

 

[LarsVest]

The common ETH28J60 nano stacking module uses pin 10 as CS/SS, so it's not a good idea to reserve pin 8 instead of.
Another thing is A6 and A7 are input only!

I like the functions in this design very much, so would it be possible to swap A6 and A7 with D6 and D7?

 

[Weder]

I like the functions in this design very much, so would it be possible to swap A6 and A7 with D6 and D7?

A6 and A7 also does not have internal pullup resistors, so external ones are required.

 

[Andreas Ortner]

I'm not an expert in pcb and board layout. I believe that a finished board is an extremely high added value for agopengps.

important is that it is very user-friendly for beginners.

Soldering and already on circuit boards is a very daunting example for many.

My suggestion is that it is possible to provide as many components as possible with plugs. like ads, ma8452 and arduino.

i also like the idea of ​​wilhelm with drill holes to build the cytron board on top of it.

maybe we can also prepare that for ardusimple.

It is very difficult to build and fix many components in a control cabinet.


i like the idea of brian to have to main components on it ads, ma8452 switches and power protections..

 

[Andreas Ortner]

I'm not an expert in pcb and board layout. I believe that a finished board is an extremely high added value for agopengps.

important is that it is very user-friendly for beginners.

Soldering and already on circuit boards is a very daunting example for many.

My suggestion is that it is possible to provide as many components as possible with plugs. like ads, ma8452 and arduino.

i also like the idea of ​​wilhelm with drill holes to build the cytron board on top of it.

maybe we can also prepare that for ardusimple.

It is very difficult to build and fix many components in a control cabinet.

 

[AlexS]

I'm not an expert in pcb and board layout. I believe that a finished board is an extremely high added value for agopengps.

important is that it is very user-friendly for beginners.

Soldering and already on circuit boards is a very daunting example for many.

My suggestion is that it is possible to provide as many components as possible with plugs. like ads, ma8452 and arduino.

i also like the idea of ​​wilhelm with drill holes to build the cytron board on top of it.

maybe we can also prepare that for ardusimple.

It is very difficult to build and fix many components in a control cabinet.

That's a very important point. It thinks it is with the wiki and the forum very clear AGOPENGPS to get running. But to mount the whole thing so that it keeps 2500 operating hours on a tractor is another matter entirely. A good PCB board would take us all a long way

 

[BrianTee]

The common ETH28J60 nano stacking module uses pin 10 as CS/SS, so it's not a good idea to reserve pin 8 instead of.
Another thing is A6 and A7 are input only!

Pin 8 is used by Ethercard, the library currently used by the firmware. It uses pin 8 to allow the use of an sd card. Ethershield, which used pin 10, is no longer compatble with the Arduino IDE with prog_char being deprecated. All the ones i've have used use pin 8.



Could go to the 5500 or other module and redo the software I suppose, but the enc module for udp seems to work really well.



Awe crap that's right, A6 and A7 are mux input only. Good catch! Should we go to an I2C port expander? or just have fewer switch inputs? Have only 4 relay outputs? They are just decisions.


Edit: I'm certainly not overlooking the balancing of the fact that while the board should be simple for the beginner, it should also be useful containing most of what is required for the majority of us. I want to use it too! I'll draw up a new schematic using the MCP23017.

 

[Weder]

Pin 8 is used by Ethercard, the library currently used by the firmware. It uses pin 8 to allow the use of an sd card. Ethershield, which used pin 10, is no longer compatble with the Arduino IDE with prog_char being deprecated. All the ones i've have used use pin 8.

Could go to the 5500 or other module and redo the software I suppose, but the enc module for udp seems to work really well.

The ENC28J60 works really well, but I wonder which one you are using, completely all of mine works with pin 10??